How to Build a Wooden Basement Wall

Preparation and Wall Placement

• 1

  Seal the exterior concrete walls with a sealer designed for the purpose. Brands and application methods vary; read the directions carefully and apply as instructed.

• 2

  Cover each exterior wall with sheets of extruded polystyrene foam insulation, cut to fit between the ceiling and floor. Use adhesive designed for use with polystyrene to attach each sheet to the concrete walls; adhesives not formulated for polystyrene may actually cause the insulation to disintegrate over time. Tape over each seam with sheathing tape, commonly referred to as tuck tape, to completely seal all moisture from penetrating the wall.

• 3

  Locate the ceiling joists along each exterior wall or in any area where you wish to install interior walls. If the ceiling is unfinished, this is fairly simple, but if the ceiling is covered use a stud finder or tap on the ceiling to find where it feels and sounds solid instead of hollow. Mark each joist for future reference.

• 4

  Cut away the ceiling finish, back to the joist on either side, if there isn't a joist in the area you want your wall. On exterior walls, this occurs on the two walls that run parallel with the joists, in which case you cut from the wall out to the first joist. For interior walls, consider moving the wall slightly to run underneath a joist.

• 5

  Find the distance between the joists -- or the outer wall and the first joist -- and cut 2-by-4-inch boards to match. Nail, one every 12 inches, between the ceiling joists. This provides wood framing to which you will attach your wall.

• 6

  Measure 1 inch from the existing exterior concrete wall in several spots along the floor, side walls and ceiling. Snap a chalk line to mark, or use a straightedge and pencil if preferred. Mark the floor and adjoining wall similarly, showing the length and placement of the new wall, for interior wall installation.

Building and Installing the Wall

• 7

  Calculate the distance, from floor to ceiling, and record. Find the length of the wall as well, whether running along an exterior wall or the distance marked for an interior wall. Repeat the length measurement for each wall desired.

• 8

  Cut one treated 2-by-4, measuring the length of each wall needed. Make an additional one for each wall, of the same length, using regular lumber. Wherever wood comes in contact with concrete there's a potential for rot and mold, which loves wet, organic material. Using treated lumber for these boards -- called plates -- eliminates this risk.

• 9

  Pair the plates together, laying each side by side. Measure across the plates and mark every 16 inches. These guide your placement of the studs.

• 10

  Subtract 4 inches from the floor to ceiling height. Cut one stud for each stud mark. Reserve additional 2-by-4s for extra framing as required. The studs are cut shorter to allow for the plate thickness as well as clearance for standing the wall upright.

• 11

  Align one stud with each mark on the treated plate, laying both plate and stud on the thin edge. Nail through the plate, into the end of the stud, with two nails per board. Stagger the nails slightly to prevent parallel nails. Begin and end with studs flush with the plates. Repeat, attaching the top plate to the opposite ends of the studs, similarly.

• 12

  Frame windows by marking the plate at the window location and inserting studs on either side of the window. Cut horizontal boards, measuring the width of the window, and toenail -- drive the nails in at an angle -- to the studs on either side of the window.

• 13

  Treat doors similarly, but place the studs the width of the frame opening required by the door manufacturer plus an additional 3 inches. After installing the header above the door, width-wise, insert and nail two studs measuring the distance from the plate to the header. These shorter studs support the weight of the header and thus, the door. Cut the bottom plate out, flush with the opening, to complete.

• 14

  Cut two additional studs, per wall, for interior walls. Chop another stud into blocks approximately 6 to 8 inches long. Insert the studs next to the end studs on each side, leaving just enough room to tap spacers between them every couple of feet. Nail into place when the blocks are positioned. This construction provides structural strength to the corners of your rooms.

• 15

  Spread construction adhesive along the bottom of the bottom plate and erect the wall. Align each wall according to the guide marks made. Hold a level up against the wall and check for plumb -- perfectly straight up and down. Insert shims to make the wall snug against the floor and ceiling. Secure through the side wall and ceiling joists or framing as appropriate, using 10d nails when anchoring to wood. To attach to concrete walls or floors, drill holes and insert concrete anchors according to the product instructions.