How to Attach a Header to a Ceiling

Preparation

• 1

  Snap two chalk lines on the ceiling to represent the position of the header. The lines should equal the width of the header, plus 1/4 inch on each side.

• 2

  Cut along the chalk lines with a utility knife and a straight edge, and remove the drywall from between the cut lines.

• 3

  Locate the wall studs that fall on each side of the location for the header and snap a chalk line vertically, down the center of each one. Cut along the lines and remove the drywall from between the lines.

• 4

  Build the header. Local codes and ceiling span play a part in the dimension of your header, but a 4-by-12-inch beam is standard for many residential headers. Because solid 4-by-12 beams are not always available, framers often make their own.

• 5

  Measure from the outside edge of one wall plate to the outside edge of the opposite wall plate to determine the length of the header. Cut two 2-by-12 boards to match this measurement.

• 6

  Cut strips of 1/2-inch plywood in 11 1/4-inch widths to fit between the two 2-by-12s. A 2-by-12 is only 11 and 1/4 inches wide, so the plywood will fit evenly. Cut as many strips as necessary to fit from end to end of the 2-by-12s.

• 7

  Nail the 2-by-12s together, with the plywood sandwiched in between, using a framing nailer and 16d nails. Insert four nails, evenly spaced, in a line every 12 inches across the width of the top board. When you finish nailing one side, turn the header over and nail the other side in the same manner, but stagger the rows of nails so they fall between the rows on the first side.

• 8

  Position the header on edge on the floor and measure in 3 1/2 inches from one side. Make a vertical line with a pencil and a straightedge. Repeat on the other side.

• 9

  Hold a tape measure at the top of the header over one of the lines, measure down 3 inches and draw a horizontal line from the tape measure to the edge. Do the same thing on the other side. This should make small rectangle 3 inches by 3 1/2-inches at both top corners of the header.

• 10

  Cut out both of the top rectangles with a reciprocating saw. These notches will fit around the upper wall plates.

Install the Header

• 11

  Lift the header into place and position two screw-type house jacks beneath the header, each one about 2 to 3 feet away from each side. The header will be heavy and unwieldy so don’t attempt to lift it by yourself.

• 12

  Adjust the screw jacks until the header is snug against the bottom of the ceiling joists and the notches in the upper corners areas fit tightly against the bottom of the wall plates. If the joists were sagging in the center, as you tighten the jacks, the header will lift the joists upward. It’s important that the side notches fit tightly.

• 13

  Attach the header at the notches to the upper wall plates, using 16d nails and shooting them at a 45-degree angle at the edge of the head into the wall plates. This is called toenailing. Use two nails, evenly spaced on both sides of the header.

• 14

  Toenail the header to the ceiling joists, using 16d nails and inserting one nail through the top of the header into every ceiling joist. Do this on both sides of the header.

• 15

  Measure from the bottom of the header to the top of the floor plate. This measurement is taken at the edge of the header, in the stud space. Cut a 4-by-4 post to fit. Do the same thing on the other side of the header.

• 16

  Install the 4-by-4 posts between the header and the floor plates. Toenail the top of a post on both sides to the upper wall plate, using two evenly spaced 16d nails. Attach the bottom of the post to the floor plate in the same manner.

• 17

  Add support by installing full-length studs on both sides of the posts. These are called king studs and they should run from the floor plate to the top wall plate. Toenail them in place the same way you did the posts, and then add nails in the sides of the king studs, every 12 inches, to attach them to the posts. Now you can remove the jacks, install new drywall and paint.