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How to Build Kitchen Cabinets Out of Reclaimed Lumber

You can find reclaimed lumber in a variety of locations; stores exist that specialize in this type of lumber, and lumber yards at times offer reclaimed wood at wholesale prices. You can also harvest reclaimed lumber by tearing down a structure on your own. If you can find straight pieces of wood, they're usually well seasoned and ready to use. You might have to purchase a few pieces of economy plywood and some drawer guides, but you can build the majority of the cabinet using reclaimed lumber.
  1. Jambs

    • Build cabinets according to what type of reclaimed lumber that's available. There are a few types that are needed. For example; you need at least some type of plywood for the center jambs, cabinet bottoms, and especially for the end jambs, which are the exposed sides of the cabinets. End jambs typically measure about 22 inches wide and 35 inches tall for bases and 12 inches wide by about 32 inches tall for upper cabinets. It's possible to laminate multiple pieces of raw lumber together and then cut them to size using a table saw for the jambs, but if you're using reclaimed lumber, the task can be time-consuming and result in jambs that may not have the integrity needed for cabinets. One option is to cut the end jambs from economy fir plywood -- which can be reclaimed -- and then overlay the end jambs with reclaimed lumber to match the rest of the cabinets. The center jambs and bottoms can be economy or reclaimed plywood without the overlay, since they are not highly visible.

    Face Frames

    • Once you've cut the jambs to size and assembled the box, the cabinet is ready for a face frame. Use almost any type of reclaimed lumber for this purpose. For rustic cabinets use barn wood; for finished cabinets, use reclaimed hardwood flooring. For ranch-style or outdoorsy cabinets use reclaimed fir or pine. The lumber should be relatively straight without major defects such as cracks or splits; knots are fine if they're tight and won't fall out. Three-quarter-inch-thick lumber is best, but 1-inch-thick works too. Rip the lumber into two different widths, 3-inch wide for the perimeter frames and 2-inch wide for the horizontal pieces. Build the drawer and door openings into a grid according to your plan by stapling the pieces together on the back side using corrugated nails, or screw the grid together using angled, toe-nailed pilot holes and screws.

    Assemble

    • When you have the pieces cut for the cabinet, staple the jambs to the bottoms according to plan, using 2-inch staples. Think of it as building a box without a face. The bases don't need backs, but for uppers, staple a 1/4-inch piece of reclaimed hardboard or economy plywood to the back, using 3/4-inch staples. When the box is complete, glue and pin-nail the face frames to the front of the box. Add clamps and tighten them to bond the face frames to the front of the boxes. Allow the glue to dry overnight and remove the clamps.

    Doors and Drawers

    • Build drawer fronts and doors 3/4-inch bigger than the openings on all four sides. For example, if the door opening is 14-by-20 inches, build the door 15 1/2-by-21 1/2 inches. If the drawer opening is 4-by-12 inches, build the drawer front 5 1/2-by-13 1/2 inches. A single piece of reclaimed lumber should work fine for the drawer front, and it's acceptable to laminate as many pieces of reclaimed lumber side-by-side as necessary for the doors. Glue the pieces together bigger than needed, and then cut the doors to size on a table saw. Build the drawer box using single pieces of 3/4-inch-thick lumber, but use 1/4-inch economy plywood for the bottoms. Use standard metal drawer guides for the drawers, or if you want to stay with the reclaimed theme, use wooden drawer guides. They won't work as smoothly, but if you're going for authenticity, wooden guides are what you need.