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How to Layout Hand-Made Tiles

Hand-made tiles, typically created from baked and glazed clay, can add a distinctive look to your tiling surface, transforming a plain looking tile field into something special that serves as a focal point for a room. Laying the tiles follows the same process as laying any clay tiles, though care is needed to avoid breaking the tiles, which can prove less strong than their mass-produced counterparts.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • Cleanser
  • Sponge
  • Degreaser
  • Cloth
  • Cement backer board
  • Corrosion-resistant screws
  • Utility knife
  • Thinset mortar
  • Bucket
  • Notched trowel
  • Handmade tiles
  • Wet saw
  • Tile spacers
  • Grout
  • Grout float
  • Lint-free cloth
  • Tile and grout sealant
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure the size of your tiling surface with a tape measure. Arrange your tiles in the pattern you’d like to lay them on a flat surface near the tiling area, using the measurements taken to confine your tile positions.

    • 2

      Clean the tiling surface with a cleanser that’s compatible to your subsurface material type and a sponge. Remove any traces of dirt or debris from the surface, using a degreaser to remove any oil that may be present. Rinse the cleaner from the surface with clean water and then dry the surface off with a clean cloth.

    • 3

      Examine the subsurface to determine if it’s suitable for tile placement. You need a strong, flat subsurface, such as concrete, concrete backer board, plywood panels or hardwood. If the surface isn’t suitable, place a layer of cement backer board over the subsurface. Attach the backer board to the surface using a layer of thinset mortar and corrosion-resistant screws spaced every 8 inches around the board’s perimeter. Cut the board to fit by scoring the surface with a utility knife and then snapping it along the scored line.

    • 4

      If you did not have to make some for the backer board, mix thinset mortar in a bucket with water to create the adhesive to hold your tiles in place. Add just enough water to give the mortar a consistency like that of peanut butter. Leave the mortar to stand for 10 minutes, then mix it a second time.

    • 5

      Spread the mortar over the tiling area with a notched trowel, raising ridges in the surface with the notches on the edge.

    • 6

      Place the tiles onto the mortar, pressing gently with a slight wiggle upon placement, in the same position you used for the test placements. Use tile spacers between individual tiles to create joint lines for grouting. Cut the tiles when needed using a wet saw. Let the tiles set in the mortar for 24 hours.

    • 7

      Remove the spacers and then grout the spaces between the tiles, spreading the grout over the tiles and into the gaps with a grout float. Wipe the grout off of the tiles' surfaces with a slightly dampened sponge and then wipe them a second time with a lint-free cloth two hours later. Allow the grout seven days of curing time and then spray the tiles with a tile and grout sealant as protection from staining.