How to Replace the Railing on Stairs

Loosen and remove the screws that secure the current railing brackets to the wall. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws and brackets, adding them to a container as you work your way along the stairway. Lift the railing with the help of an assistant and set it aside.

Inspect the wall along the stairway that the old railing was attached to for any damages that occurred when removing the brackets. Apply drywall mud into large holes or dents in the wall with a putty knife. Scrape excess drywall at the top of the repair patch off with the edge of the knife and allow it to cure for the time specified on the label directions. Rub sandpaper over the cured drywall patch and apply paint it so it blends with the wall.

Measure the length of the old railing and cut the new wood railing to match its size. Use a miter saw to cut both the ends of the wood rail at 45 degrees. Don't discard the extra wood for the rail, but keep it aside to use for the returns later.

Place a stud finder on the wall, 36 inches above the stair treads, and move it along the stairway to determine stud locations. Mark the spot on the wall every time the stud finder signals a stud. Ensure all the marks are 34 to 36 inches above the corresponding treads. Consult your local building code for the exact height required.

Hold a bracket upright over a stud mark at the top of the stairway. Insert the tip of a pencil through each screw hole in the bracket to mark the locations on the wall. Repeat this process along the stairway.

Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes through the wall, directly above the pencil marks. Hold the bracket against the wall and align its screw holes with the pilot holes. Insert screws through the holes to secure the bracket to the wall. Repeat this process of attaching the remaining railing brackets to the wall.

Set the railing on the brackets. Drill pilot holes through the hand rail for bracket screws. Insert screws into the holes and secure with a screwdriver.

Stand at the topmost stair, next to the upper mitered end of the railing. Measure the distance from the higher point of the 45-degree cut to the wall. Add 1/16-inch to this distance to ensure a tight fit. Cut the flat ends of the two pieces cut from the ends of the railing in Step 3 to the measurement. Match up the mitered ends so each forms an elbow that bends to meet the wall -- swap the piece cut from the bottom to the top, and vice versa, for an easy match. Apply an even layer of wood glue over the mitered end of the rail and the mitered end of a return piece.

Join the glued edges of both the pieces together, with the straight edge of the return resting against the wall. Hammer two or three finish nails into the joint between the rail edge and return. Repeat the process of attaching the return at the lower end of the rail.