How to Add Flush Nose Molding to Stairs

Clean the subfloor to remove dirt, debris or grime that may prevent a secure bond between the back of the molding and the tread. If required, scrub the tread with a mild detergent and allow it to dry.

Sand high spots on the tread or fill low spots with floor-leveling compound so the surface is level.

Extend a measuring tape along the front edge of the tread where you want to install the nose molding.

Measure nose molding plank according to the measurement in Step 3 and cut it using a miter saw. Ensure the top side of the molding faces down against the table and remove the back portion, leaving the rounded section along the front intact.

Dry fit the molding on the tread to ensure it falls flush with the edge of the tread. If required, mark and trim excess along the back of the molding so its rounded front does not overlap the tread.

Rub the cut edge of the molding plank with fine-grit sandpaper in the direction of the wood grain to remove splinters and sharp edges.

Spread a thin bead of wood-flooring adhesive over the cut edge of the molding and its back. Also spread a small amount of adhesive along the exposed edge of the tread.

Lower the nose molding against the front edge of the tread. Press the molding to help the glue adhere to the surface and form a secure bond.

Wipe any adhesive that seeps through the joint with a cloth.

Bore pilot holes through the rounded front of the nose molding, spaced eight inches apart along the length.

Pound finish nails through the holes to secure the molding to the subfloor. Set the nails 1/16 inches lower than the surface of the surrounding wood.

Fill the tiny gap between the nail heads and surrounding nose molding surface with tinted putty.

Smooth the putty with a putty knife and leave it to dry according to the time specified on the label’s directions.

Sand the dried putty and touch it up with a matching finish so it blends with the surrounding area.