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How to Build an Indoor Brick Wall

Building an indoor brick wall has been simplified with the introduction of thin brick, real clay brick fired in a kiln but only 1/2 to 1 inch thick compared to about 4 inches for standard brick. This eliminates the need for a solid concrete base under the brick. Installing thin brick indoors is similar to laying an exterior brick façade or you can buy thin brick on cement fiber panels, which are installed much like drywall or plywood paneling. There also are false bricks, of materials other than clay, that you can install with mastic or adhesive like wall tile.

Things You'll Need

  • Cement fiber board
  • Drywall screws
  • Scew gun
  • Moisture membrane
  • Construction stapler
  • Metal lath
  • Galvanized nails
  • Hammer
  • Mortar
  • Rectangular mason's trowel
  • Stiff bristle broom or leaf rake
  • Tape measure
  • Chalk line
  • Trowel
  • Thin set mortar or mastic
  • Tile spacers (optional)
  • Level
  • Circular saw with masonry blade
  • Grout
  • Grout bag
  • Damp sponge
  • Tuckpointing or brick finishing tool
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Instructions

    • 1

      Prepare the wall. Install thin brick on a concrete or concrete block wall indoors with mortar, just as with an exterior façade. Prepare a wall with wood sheathing or drywall one of two ways, with cement fiber backerboard or metal lath. Use drywall screws driven with a screw gun into studs to secure the cement backerboard, typically about 1/4-inch thick, or put metal lath over a moisture barrier stapled to the wall with a construction stapler; fasten the lath with galvanized nails driven with a hammer into wall studs.

    • 2

      Spread a "scratch" coat of mortar over lath. Use a rectangular mason's trowel to put about 1/8-inch of mortar over the lath. Scratch it with the notched edge of the trowel, a stiff bristle broom or a leaf rake to roughen the surface. Let that scratch coat dry overnight. Backerboard is a cement product and needs no scratch coat.

    • 3

      Measure up the wall from the floor with a tape measure 6 or 8 inches at each end of the wall and snap a level chalk line between the points as a guide to keep brick lines level. Spread thin-set mortar or mastic, depending on the recommendations of the thin brick supplier, on the backs of bricks with a trowel and set them in place on the metal lath or backeboard. Press the bricks firmly into place until they are secure.

    • 4

      Leave joint gaps between the bricks; use plastic tile spacers if necessary to keep joints even. Lay a bottom course first. Use a level to keep bricks level. Start the second course with a half brick; cut a brick in half with a masonry blade on a circular saw. Add bricks to the end of the wall, start the third course with a full brick, the next with a half-brick, repeating until the wall is covered.

    • 5

      Grout the joints after the mortar or mastic dries; remove the tile spacers if you used them. Fill a fabric grout bag fitted with a metal tip with wet grout. Squeeze the bag to force the grout into all the joints between bricks. Don't overfill the joints, and wipe off any spilled grout with a damp cloth. Finish grout joints with a tuckpointing tool or brick finishing tool to make them smooth and even with the brick surface or slightly below it.