The breaker box is often located in the garage or adjacent to it. The breaker box contains all of the circuit breakers to electrical systems in the home. All of the wiring comes together inside a protective cylinder made of PVC leading to the box. You may find it running along the garage’s inside roof. Wiring is often grouped by room or indoor appliance function, such as kitchen appliances and bedroom lights. If there is an electrical overload, the breaker shuts off to protect against electrocution or fire.
You can also find 240-volt wiring in the garage’s wiring circuit in addition to the standard 110 volts. The 240-volt wiring is beneficial to homeowners who operate power tools requiring large electrical loads like table saws. This wiring also accommodates homes with electric dryers, which require two separate 110-volt “hot” lines. Newer 240-volt receptacles for dryers use a four-prong set up that add a neutral wire in addition to the hot lines and the ground.
The garage door opener’s wiring runs along the ceiling of your garage. Wiring extends from the main unit to the operation switch near the home entrance door. The motor unit plugs into a receptacle. There is also wiring leading to the light and remote sensor units. Other accessories requiring wiring include wall control units, power locks and garage door sensors.
If your home has a detached garage, the typical wiring circuit has a few changes. Wiring is often run underground from the home to the garage via approved PVC conduit protection. Some states require that all circuits are protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter switch on the outlets. If there is an electrical overload, the GFCI breaks the circuit at the receptacle location versus the circuit breaker in the power box. There must also be a disconnect button that shuts off all power to the garage immediately inside at the entrance point.