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White Cedar Shingle Installation

White cedar shingles can be used on a roof, but they are most often applied as siding. Red cedar shingles are favored for roofs. Naturally gray white cedar shingles come treated to resist moisture. You can paint them, or you can stain them to preserve their natural color. If you buy untreated shingles, you will have to treat them with a bleaching agent that contains linseed oil to keep them looking good and weather-resistant. You need to treat cut ends that expose untreated wood.

Things You'll Need

  • Nail gun
  • 1 1/4- to 1 1/2-inch-long, rust-resistant nails
  • Utility knife
  • Power saw
  • Linseed-based bleaching agent
  • Brush
  • Furring strip
  • Carpenter’s pencil
  • Carpenter's level
  • Tape measure
  • Chalk line
  • Caulk
  • Metal flashing
  • Molding
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Instructions

  1. Calculations

    • 1

      Calculate the number of shingle courses to install by measuring the area of the wall and dividing it by 5, the maximum recommended exposure or visible surface of the shingles in inches. For a 4-inch exposure that requires more shingles, divide by four. Do not allow the edges of the shingles to touch. Separate them by a 1/8-inch "keyway" space.

    • 2

      Adjust the shingle exposure to get an even number of courses with a minimum of 4 inches of exposure for the tops of the wall, windows and doors.

    • 3

      Mark the distance between the tops of courses on a furring strip. Use the marks on the furring strip to establish end points for a chalked snap line. Snap a line to guide the installation of each course. Use a carpenter's level to make sure each course is level.

    Installing the Shingles

    • 4

      Install two courses of shingles, one on top of the other, at the base of the wall. Cedar shingles come in random widths. Leave 1-1/2 inches between the keyway spaces for the shingles on both the top and bottom layers. The bottom layer should be 1 inch from the top of the foundation. The top layer should extend 1/2-inch beyond the bottom layer.

    • 5

      Work up the wall by installing overlapping courses of shingles with a 5-inch exposure. Leave 1 1/2 inches between the keyway spaces of the overlapping layers. Fasten each shingle with two nails, one 3/4-inch from the edge of the shingle and the other 1 inch above the bottom of the overlapping shingle.

    • 6

      Mount the shingles flush to the top of the wall and install molding over them. The top course should have a minimum 4-inch exposure.

    • 7

      Alternate the exposed ends of the shingles at the corners of the house. This is called lacing the shingles. To cut a shingle, score it vertically with a utility knife and snap it in half. Coat the exposed end with sealer or stain before mounting it in place.

    Windows, Doors and Gables

    • 8

      Install shingles flush to the underside of window frames then install molding over them.

    • 9

      Apply caulk at the edge of the window frame then apply the shingles flush against the frame.

    • 10

      Install metal flashing above the header or top of the window or door. Apply shingles on top of the flashing. Space the shingles 1/4- to 1/2-inch apart and flush against the header. Apply trim on top of the shingles.

    • 11

      Use the power saw to cut shingles at an angle to fit the gables' slope.