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Preengineered Steel Building Installation

Pre-engineered steel buildings have residential, agricultural, industrial,and institutional uses. The can be used to protect tools, equipment and vehicle. Many do-it-yourself people choose prefabricated steel buildings, owing to their durability and quick assembly. Before beginning, research your local building codes for foundation requirements, frost depth and snow and wind loads.

Things You'll Need

  • Preengineered steel building kit
  • 2-by-2 inch stakes
  • 2-by-4 inch boards.
  • 1-by-2 inch stakes
  • Gravel
  • Rebar
  • Mesh
  • Concrete
  • Hammer drill
  • Concrete bit
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Instructions

  1. Foundation

    • 1

      Build the foundation for the building. Many owners select a concrete slab for the perimeter foundation. Lay out the dimensions for the foundation according to the building measurements by placing 2-by-2 inch stakes in the corners.

    • 2

      Excavate the area for the footing around the perimeter of the slab area. The footing should be 12 inches wide and a depth of 12 inches (or deeper), based on your local building codes. Compact the base soil material and add a layer of gravel or sand if recommended by local codes.

    • 3

      Construct a form around the perimeter with 2-by-4 inch boards. Drive 1-by-2 inch stakes into the ground behind the boards every 48 inches. Install rebar around the perimeter of the footing, three inches from the bottom and five inches above the bottom rebar.

    • 4

      Pour the concrete for the footing and slab simultaneously. Apply wire mesh at midpoint in the 4-inch slab. Allow the concrete to cure. Place a 1 ½-by- 1 ½ inch sheeting ledge around the top edge of the slab, which prevents water infiltration under the steel panels.

    Building Assembly

    • 5

      Lay the starter base rails in the four corners 1 ½-inch in from the sheeting ledge on the sides of the slab. Insert extensions rail into the starter base rails to obtain the desired length. Connect the extension rails with self-drilling screws.

    • 6

      Drill five-inch-deep holes for the 5/8-inch bolts through the holes in the railing. Use a hammer drill with a 5/8-inch concrete bit. Put the washer and nut on the top of the bolt. Insert the bolt in the hole, tap in place, and tighten the nut.

    • 7

      Mark the positions for the corner and side posts on both sides. A side post may consist of a 2-by-4-by-6 inch post with a base plate welded to the bottom. Install the corner posts. Insert the top of the extension into the end of the post. Secure the two components with self-drilling screws. Mark the location of the anchor hole and remove the post. Drill the hole, insert the anchor bolt and tighten.

    • 8

      Place the carpenter’s level against the post to straighten. Brace the corner post with two 2-by-4 inch boards attached to stakes. Repeat this step for each corner post. Install the inside posts.

    • 9

      Screw the hat channel girt to the posts two inches off the slab and as otherwise instructed. Place the end of a girt in the middle of a side post.

    • 10

      Assemble the truss as instructed. Insert the ends of the truss into the top end of the posts. Complete the interior truss installation. Connect the purlins to the trusses according to the assembly instructions. Purlins add stability to the roof system and provide a surface for fastening roof panels.

    • 11

      Attach the end enclosure panel to the building. Install building insulation in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Secure the wall and roof panels to the structure. Complete the installation of doors, windows and other accessories.