Inspect the chimney to ensure it will function safely and there are no cracks. A masonry chimney must be lined with an Underwriter's Laboratory-approved flue liner if it's not designed for wood stoves.
Set the stove down on noncombustible flooring in a selected location, ensuring adherence to clearance requirements. For many wood stoves, 6 inches of clearance from combustibles is necessary on the front and sides of the stove. If you're placing it directly in the fireplace, you won't need floor protection. Otherwise, make sure a hearth pad or other noncombustible flooring rests between the stove and floor, and extends at least 6 inches to the front and sides.
Connect the stove pipe sections to the stove's flue collar and secure them with metal screws, or as directed by the stove's manufacturer.
Line the chimney all the way to the top with a flexible stainless steel pipe that matches the stove's flue collar, if the stove is being installed directly in an existing fireplace. To penetrate the damper, use a reciprocating saw to cut a hole to the size of the piping.
Run the stove piping to the masonry chimney if the stove will not be set in the fireplace. If you're passing through a combustible wall, clear 16 inches of space from the point where the piping penetrates, using a jigsaw. Alternatively, clear 8 inches and install noncombustible insulation such as brick masonry or rock wool. Do not install the piping directly through a concrete wall without insulation. Concrete can act as a heat conductor, rather than an insulator, and can crack and ignite adjacent combustible materials.
Install a clay fire thimble into the chimney's masonry wall if you're penetrating the wall. Prepare ready-mix stove cement and spread it with a trowel around the opening in the chimney. Set the clay fire thimble in place. Run insulated metal stove piping through the thimble so it extends no farther than the chimney liner.
Install a chimney cap at the top of the steel liner, using stove cement, or as directed by the manufacturer.