How to Build a Barn Garage

Planning
Decide what you are going to be using a garage barn for. Working on automobiles or machinery, wood or metal shop, storing tack, feed or hay, or even renting it out. My way of doing it is to think of what I need it for now and what I might want to do in the future, then come up with a plan that falls within my budget. If it is planned and built properly, don't think of it as a libility, its money in the bank later on down the road.

Location
If you have a prime piece of property you might not want to make a garage barn the focal point. Lay it out keeping in mind how to get utilities to it and where it won't be an eyesore. Always think of resale.

Drawings
I'm the kinda of guy that knows what he wants and I build it accordingly. If you hire a builder, verbal descriptions will get you into trouble. Find a CAD person to draw up a plan so the builder has something to follow. Include specifications and a time line. If a problem arises, he should approach you to work it out.

Structure
When I build something its there to stay for quite a while. You don't have to go overboard but you need to keep in mind the elements in your area. e.g., wind, storms, light flooding, shifting ground etc...You don't have to hire an Engineer but it won't hurt to shop around for ideas as well as visiting exsisting barns or erected models. I went with a wood frame vs steel. It makes my add ons and changes easier.

Choices
There are many ascetics to think about. Colors, roofing, brick, rock, stucco, wood, vinyl, Hardiplank, steel or a combination of any two. How fancy do you want it. It can be as simple as a pole barn with a dirt floor.

My present project is a 30'x 60' garage barn with an apartment. The garage barn is a 30'x 30'. It will be used as a wood/metal shop. It has a urinal for the boys. A deer/fish cleaning station. Plenty of room for tools and work space.

The structure is a 5" concrete slab with 12"x 16" footings, 1/2" re-bar, moisture barrier, termite treatment and 6" above grade. The concrete is poured around the treated support beams that measure 6"x 6"x 16', ten feet apart. The beams are 3' beneath the concrete and the tops are cut off at a height of 12'. They support a double truss (2 trusses nailed together) with 2"x 6"x 10' perlins attached by hurricane clips.

The roof is level 4 galvalume R panel with 1/4" foil insulation. Continious ridge vent for heat load. The R panel metal siding is screwed to 2"x6"x 10'horizontals every 3 feet. A gable vent was added to relieve the heat load where a temperature contolled exhaust fan will be mounted.. For extra storage a 10'x 30' covered lean-to was added for future. It serves two purposes, equipment storage and it shades the west wall reducing the heat load. The main door is a 10' wide by 8' tall roll up with 30'x 12' of covered porch that can be used as a car port. A 3/0 door for a walk in access.

Decide what utilities you will need and incorporate them into your plans. As far as electrical, I would go with a 200 amp service for future use. The cost is not much more and it won't be an obstacle if you decide to expand. Two 12 foot clear R panels were added to the back half of the roof for free lighting. One way of going GREEN.