Cut two sheets of the black melamine to 2 by 3 feet, then cut another to 5 by 3 feet. Attach these to form a U-shaped bar base that will set directly on the basement floor.
Stand the 5-foot board lengthwise so it is vertically positioned; set one 3-foot lengths along the edge to form a corner. Drill three pilot holes, each a foot apart, along the 3-foot board and through the end of the 5-foot boards. Then dip three 2-inch wood screws into wood glue and drill them into the holes. Repeat this for the other side and remaining 3-foot board.
Measure and cut a 6-by-3-foot section of hardwood plywood (either maple or oak) on a table saw. Lay this on the ground. Set the bar base on top of it so it is positioned about 4 inches from the 5-foot board and there is 6 inches of space on each end. Trace along the inside of the bar base to outline where the two pieces will be joined.
Cut three more 4-by-1-foot sections of melamine on a table saw from the remaining scraps. Coat one side of each with adhesive. Mount these along the top edge of the basement bar's base using hand clamps or C-clamps and let dry. This provides a tight seal that helps to reduce moisture, which is often prevalent in a basement.
Coat the top edge of the bar top, including the melamine braces you secured onto it in step 4 with adhesive. Set the hardwood sheet on top of the basement wet bar base. Line it up so the lines you drew in step 3 are aligned with the edge of the bar.
Lightly sand the bar top with 320-grit sand paper. Stain the top with a light finish. After this dries, seal it with a layer of clear polycoat sealant. This provides a great surface for your basement bar as the sealant is glossy and resists moisture.
Install metal shelving brackets on the insides of the bar base walls using a small 1/2-inch wood screw and a dab of adhesive. Install glass plates as shelves inside the bar. These can store alcohol bottles, bar shakers and tools, placing them within easy reach and eliminating the need to go upstairs to get bar tools.