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How to Install Fold-Down Attic Steps

Attic storage is a wonderful place to keep holiday decorations, the kids' old clothes and grade-school mementos, and a lot of outdated luggage. Getting that stuff up there, or back down again, can lead to pinched fingers and banged-up knees, especially if you have to drag over the ladder from the garage each time. The fold-down ladder is out of the way when you don't need it and handy when it's time to ascend into the archives.

Things You'll Need

  • 16d common nails
  • 1-by-4-inch cleats
  • 1-by-4-inch studs
  • 2 1/2-inch screws
  • 4-inch lag screws
  • Carpenter's level
  • Electric screwdriver or power drill
  • Ladder
  • Metal joist hangers
  • Molding
  • Paint
  • Paintbrush
  • Reciprocating saw
  • Shims
  • Utility knife
  • Vacuum
  • Wood
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil
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Instructions

    • 1

      Measure and mark the area on the joists (cross beams) of the attic floor where you want the ladder to descend; this might be a new frame around the existing access. Use a measuring tape and pencil. Saw through the joists with the reciprocating saw, and remove the pieces that block the new opening, and any leftover nails.

    • 2

      Cut through any ceiling trim with the utility knife, and clean the line with the saw.

    • 3

      Measure out new joists and a head-guard from the 2-by-8 inch wood to fit as a frame into the staircase's opening. Nail the header and the joists together, using the 16d nails and a hammer, and insert it into place so that it fastens directly to an already-existing ceiling beam.

    • 4

      Fasten the metal joist hangers onto the left and right sides of the framed opening, screwing them in with a power drill or electric screwdriver and 2 1/2-inch screws. The ladder will hang from them, so make sure everything's tight.

    • 5

      Clean out the opening again, using the new framing as a guide for the reciprocating saw. Vacuum the area and remove the dust.

    • 6

      Mark the spots on the opening where the hardware on the ladder will meet hardware on the frame. Screw in the 1-by-4 inch cleats into solid framing at these spots, using the 2 1/2-inch screws and a drill.

    • 7

      Hold the closed staircase at the top of the opening into the attic, and let it sit on the temporary cleats. Center the staircase on its frame by tapping shims into the frame until everything is straight, according to the carpenter's level.

    • 8

      Pull down the stairs again and, while you're on the ladder, let your assistant hold the stairs steady from below, so that you can pre-drill holes into the top of the staircase and then into the joists. Insert the 4-inch lag screws into the holes you've just drilled, and use the power drill or screwdriver to secure them tightly. Unscrew the cleats and remove them.

    • 9

      Fold up the bottom-most section of the ladder and measure the length from the next section to the floor. Determine the angle and the length that the ladder needs to meet the floor. Trim the ends to a right angle with the saw so they fit firmly against the floor.

    • 10

      Install casing or other decorative shielding around the opening, and then paint it and the panel, using a paintbrush.