Can You Finish a Basement That Doesn't Have a Walk out?

Dehumidifiers

• Basements are traditionally cooler and moister than upstairs spaces. They are also plagued with more leaky windows and vents than most other areas of the home. These conditions provide the right environment for the growth of mold, a potentially hazardous organism. Prior to undertaking any construction project, all leaks should be sealed and water sources removed. If the air is still humid, investing in some dehumidifiers will take care of the problem. It is a simple step that will prevent potentially dangerous conditions and avoid costly repairs.

Framing

• Framing is the first step towards a finished look in the basement. Once complete, the space will be more comfortable and have the look and feel of a real room. A layer of insulation added between the block or concrete and drywall will help keep the space more comfortable during cold weather. The process requires at least some carpentry experience but is easy enough for beginners. If the basement is large enough, a bathroom addition will help eliminate trips up the stairs and is one addition that will pay off if the home goes on the market. Once the framing is complete, a layer of insulation is put up and then topped with drywall.

Building Codes and Permits

• Though having a walkout is not required to finish a basement, there are a few building codes to consider. These codes will change depending on the state the remodel is done in and will usually differ for older homes versus new construction. If the new space will function as a bedroom, most state regulations require a minimum window size and height, which is a safety feature that ensures occupants can get out in the event of a fire. Additionally, some states have closet and smoke detector regulations while others will have a minimum width for exits and other specifics. These codes are available online, usually from the city website. Permits are another important part of construction and should be addressed before any changes are made. Complying with the codes and permit regulations is required and will save costly fixes, fines and potential construction freezes down the road.

Designing the Space

• A simple drywall ceiling is usually a better choice in a basement than a drop ceiling. Not only does it not sag over time, but it leaves head space uninterrupted and less confining. Paint is perhaps the most desirable material for the walls, as it is inexpensive, easy to apply and will withstand moisture and temperature fluctuations. For smaller areas or those without lots of natural light, stick to light colors -- shades of white and yellow or members of the pastel family, which will reflect light and make the room feel larger. Flooring is a bit more limited in the basement than in other areas of the home. Even with dehumidifiers, some flooring is prone to mildew problems, cracking and warping. Ceramic tile is a good choice for basements since it is durable, easy to clean and won't warp. Engineered wood floors are better than natural wood since they have been designed to withstand warping and cracking and are significantly less costly than natural wood. Concrete, whether left plain or decorated with a stain, stamp or stencil, is also durable and low maintenance. It will usually crack a bit over time, but these cracks are more superficial than structural.