How to Tile Around Drains That Curve Inward

Locate the weep holes on the drain assembly. The weep holes are on the lower level of the assembly. Place tile spacers on top of them so you won't accidentally fill them with mortar.

Mix a batch of floor mortar according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Spread it over the floor area you need to cover, adding more mortar until you have built it up to half the height you need. Smooth the mortar with the wooden smoother, floating the tool on top of the mortar from the drain up to the walls. Create a gentle slope so the mortar is higher at the edges of the room than at the drain.

Place a layer of metal lath over the mortar. Maintain a gap of at least ½ inch between the drain and the lath that surrounds it.

Add more mortar to the floor, continuing to build it up until it reaches the height you want. Keep enough space between the underside of the drain cover and the mortar for the tile you intend to lay. Continue to smooth the mortar and maintain the slope toward the drain.

Allow the mortar on the floor to cure overnight. Once it is completely cured, you can lay tile on it.

Lay tile on the floor in a dry run, testing the spacing and ensuring you have the right amount of tile. Snap any reference lines you need with the chalk line. Mark the tiles that will surround the drain. Draw the curve of the drain on them, marking how much of each tile will need to be removed so those tiles will fit just under the drain cover.

Cut away the portions of the tiles that need to be removed using the tile snips.

Mix the thin-set mortar. Install the floor tiles in the pattern you laid out, placing the pieces you cut down to size around the curve of the drain.