Installation of Hardwood Floors & Removal of Baseboards

Removing Baseboards

• Removing old baseboards is a relatively easy do-it-yourself project. All the tools that you need are a hammer and either a flat blade screwdriver or blunt chisel. Use the blunt edge of the chisel or screwdriver to wedge in between the baseboard and the wall. Lightly tap the end of the blade with the hammer to gently pry it away from the wall. If the baseboard is glued to the wall, pry very slowly so that you don’t pull off any pieces of the wall. If it is screwed on, you may be able to just unscrew it from the wall.

Subflooring and Underlayment

• On a wood subfloor, generally the stapling or nailing method of installing hardwood flooring is preferred. With a concrete subfloor, use of the glue method is appropriate. These methods also are acceptable for use with a radiant heat system. An underlayment is necessary for hardwood flooring. This protects the bottom of the floor from moisture, and provides cushioning and sound dampening. Types of underlayment include plastic, cork, and standard or upgraded foam along with a combination foam/film variety.

Contraction/Expansion

• Hardwood flooring is susceptible to moisture and relative humidity. This is a natural occurrence and will happen regardless of the consistency of the relative humidity in your home. As an example, a hardwood plank that measures 3 inches wide may expand or contract about 1/16 inch. This may not seem like a lot, but when you figure it for a 10-foot area, it could measure up to 2 1/2 inches. Professionals suggest leaving a 1/2-inch gap around the entire perimeter of the room.

First Row

• The starter row is the most important as this sets the foundation for the rest of the flooring. The last row is also important in that it completes the floor and keeps everything together. This is especially true with the floating method. The first row needs to run parallel to the side of the room that is the longest. If possible, the light from sources such as windows should fall parallel to the flooring pieces. Work is usually done from left to right; however, it is best to do what is comfortable for you. The end result is for the hardwood floor to be square with the room.