How to Install Bruce Engineered Flooring With Transition Moldings

Calculate the surface area of the floor where you’re installing the floorboards with a tape measure by measuring the length and width of the floor, and then multiplying the two together. Add 10 percent to the total and purchase enough floorboards to cover the adjusted amount.

Mix the contents of the cartons of floorboards to avoid patches of different-colored floorboards as floorboard batches may differ slightly in color.

Place a layer of 6-mil plastic vapor barrier sheeting over concrete floors to block moisture from rising through the concrete to the floorboards. Position the plastic in rows over the floor surface with the edge rows overlapping the base of any walls two inches, and each subsequent row overlapping the row adjacent to it by seven inches. Cut the sheets with a utility knife when necessary to fit the floor surface. Cover the seams between the floor strips with masking tape to hold the sheets in position. Vapor barriers are not required with wooden subfloors.

Lay foam underlayment over the floor surface in rows. Place each row with the edge butted tightly against adjoining rows. Use the utility knife to cut the ends of the foam, as well as the side of the last row of foam to fit against the wall. Cover the joints between each two rows with a strip of duct tape to hold the foam in position.

Place a board onto a scrap piece of the foam underlayment and then press the two pieces against the base of any doorjambs to which the floorboards will be attached. Mark the level of the top of the combined board and underlayment against the jamb with a pencil. Use a hacksaw to cut through the jamb at the marked level, to the wall, and then remove the cut piece, leaving a small gap along the base of the jamb in which to slide the edges of the boards.

Place 1/4-inch spacers along the edge of the longest wall in the room.

Line the first row of boards against the spacers, placing the boards end to end along the edge of the longest wall with the groove of the boards facing the wall. Cut the last board in the row with a table saw to fit the partial space at the end of the row.

Lay the second row of boards starting with the partial piece from the last board of the first row. Place the groove in the second row of boards onto the tongue of the first row, and then press the board flat onto the floor until the tongue is locked into place and the boards butt tightly together. Using the partial board creates staggered joints between rows, which helps to strengthen the floor. Continue placing the second row of boards to the first, cutting the last board in the row as needed to fit.

Staple the boards to the subfloor using 1-inch staples placed beginning one inch from the end of the board and running along the board length every four inches through the tongue of the board once set into the groove of the next row. Use only enough air pressure in the stapler to drive the staple through the boards and into the subfloor without damaging the top of the boards in the process. Continue to place the rows of boards, stapling each into place until you reach the last row. Cut the last rows of boards along their lengths to fit them against the far wall, leaving a 1/4-inch gap between the board edge and the wall.

Leave a 1-inch gap between the floorboards and any other surface for placement of the transition molding.

Measure the length of the flooring edge where the transition molding is needed. Cut a piece of the transition track to the measured length with the table saw.

Place the track into the gap between the two floor surfaces. Secure it in place with nails through the base of the track spaced every six inches along the track length.

Cut the transition molding strip to the length of the gap between the floors with the saw. Test fit the molding into the track to check if the bottom of the two ledges of the strip lies flush with the two flooring surfaces. If one of the surfaces is higher than the other, then sand that side of the strip ledge thinner with a piece of sandpaper placed onto a sanding block until both sides of the strip are flush.

Place the strip back into the track and then tap it along its length with a rubber-headed mallet to fit it tightly into the track beneath.