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How to Install Tarkett Vintage Maple Hardwood Flooring

Harris-Tarkett vintage maple hardwood flooring installs in much the same manner as other hardwood flooring. While it’s possible to glue or nail this style of Tarkett maple flooring to the subfloor, it’s much easier for a do-it-yourselfer to lay it as a floating floor. This means the wood tongue-and-groove planks are linked together over an underlayment. The weight of the wood holds the planks together in the middle of the floor, and the shoe molding holds the floor in place around the room's perimeter. This type of floor installation minimizes the need for special installation tools.

Things You'll Need

  • Prybar
  • Shop vacuum
  • Hammer
  • Screwdriver
  • Self-leveling floor repair compound
  • Foam underlayment
  • Duct tape
  • Tape measure
  • Handsaw
  • 1/2-inch spacers
  • Wood glue
  • Paper towels
  • Small block of wood
  • Finishing nails
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Instructions

  1. Floor Preparation

    • 1

      Pry off the shoe molding from the perimeter of the room, using the prybar. Save the shoe molding so you can replace it later.

    • 2

      Clean the subfloor with a shop vacuum. Hammer or screw loose and protruding nails or screws into the subfloor. Repair any cracks or uneven areas on concrete subflooring, using self-leveling floor repair compound applied following manufacturer’s directions and allow it to dry.

    • 3

      Cover the subfloor with foam underlayment. Unroll the underlayment. Butt edges together and tape with duct tape.

    • 4

      Measure the thickness of the Tarkett maple flooring. Use a handsaw to cut away that amount from under the door trim to allow the flooring to fit.

    Laying the Hardwood Flooring

    • 5

      Mark a straight line 1/2 inch from the longest wall to start the installation. As you work, allow a 1/2 inch expansion line around the perimeter of the room. Use wood chips cut into 1/2-inch pieces as spacers to help maintain the expansion line.

    • 6

      Set the first row of boards in place with the groove facing the wall and setting on the line you drew. Connect end pieces by placing wood glue in the groove portion of the end and sliding it onto the tongue portion of the adjoining piece. Wipe off any glue that oozes out, using paper towels. Cut the final plank to fit with a handsaw.

    • 7

      Lay out the pieces for the next row of boards. Stagger joints by at least 18 inches. It’s often possible to use the cut piece from the preceding row as the starting plank for the next row. Fill the grooves on the long edges with glue for 8 inches, then skip for 12 inches. Attach the long planks to the planks in the first row. Hold a small block of wood against the side of the plank and tap the tongue-and-groove connections together, using the hammer. As you attach ends, fill grooves with glue before securing them to their adjoining tongues. Cut the final piece in the row to fit, using the handsaw.

    • 8

      Continue setting the rest of the flooring until you get to the last row. Remember to wipe up any glue that emerges between the joints.

    • 9

      Measure how much width remains between the last laid plank and the 1/2-inch expansion line. Draw a line on the back of each plank of wood in that last row to indicate where it needs cutting. Cut the plank with a handsaw to fit. Apply glue to the grooves and set the final row of hardwood planks into position.

    • 10

      Attach the shoe molding to the walls and not the floor, using finishing nails. The shoe molding should cover the expansion joint. By attaching to the walls, the floor has room to expand and contract over its expansion joint, allowing for changes in temperature and humidity.