How to Lay Laminate in an Octagon-Shaped Hallway

Mark a 135-degree angle on a 1-by-6-by-12-inch piece of scrap lumber by using a protractor. Cut the lumber at the marked angle with a miter box and miter saw to ensure a precise angle. The result is your template for cutting the laminate boards at an angle.

Mark a number on each of the octagon-shaped hallway's baseboards with a pencil, identifying them from 1 through 8. Also lightly mark the walls above the baseboards with the matching numbers.

Remove the baseboards from the walls, starting by carefully cutting the paint and caulk along the top of each baseboard with a utility knife. Gently pry the baseboards from the walls by using a pry bar. Remove all nails, and set the baseboards aside.

Remove carpet and carpet tack strips from the hallway's floor. If the flooring is sheet vinyl or linoleum-type tile in good condition, you may leave it in place and lay the new laminate floor over it. Remove all dust, dirt and other debris from the floor by sweeping with a broom or vacuum cleaner.

Roll underlayment over the subfloor, vinyl or linoleum-type tile. Butt the sides together, and tape them with 3-inch wide tape so the underlayment lays perfectly flat. Trim the underlayment's edges around the walls, allowing the underlayment to extend 2 inches up the walls.

Put on gloves, safety glasses and a dust mask. Wear those items while you cut and install the laminate flooring. Move to a corner of the octagonal hallway. Lay the first laminate board flat with its groove facing a corner wall. Then turn it over so it is upside down with the groove still facing the wall.

Place your template at the end of the laminate board, and mark the template's angle with a fine-point permanent marker. Turn the laminate board over, and center a piece of painter's tape over the line you drew. Turn the laminate board over again, and cut it at the angle with a jigsaw or circular saw. Remove the painter's tape, and butt the board against the wall in the corner.

Snap the first row of laminate boards in place, working your way across the wall. When you reach the last laminate board for the first row, turn it upside down so that its grooved edge faces the wall. Mark the point where the last board meets the previously installed board. Lay the template over the back of the board. Move the template back 1 inch, and draw the template's angle on the board. Cut the board as you cut the first board. Turn over one portion of the board, and snap it into place.

Take the remaining portion of the laminate board you just cut to the opposite wall. Because that partial board's angle is already cut, start with it to snap the next row of laminate boards into place. Tap the boards into place with a tapping block and rubber mallet. Continue installing the laminate flooring in the same manner as previously until you reach the next corner, where the wall is perpendicular to the first wall.

Pull the laminate flooring outward 1/2 inch after you install the first three rows. Place spacers between the wall and the flooring, leaving a 1/2-inch space along each wall. The space allows the flooring to expand and contract according to the air's temperature and humidity. The space will be covered by the baseboards when the floor is complete.

Cut the laminate boards at a 90-degree angle with the miter box and miter saw while installing the next section of flooring. When you reach the last one-third of the hallway, use the 135-degree template to cut laminate boards for the rest of the flooring project. Trim the last row of boards as needed to fit the space left.

Align each baseboard with its matching number on the wall. Reinstall the baseboards over the underlayment by tapping 1 1/2-inch long finishing nails through the baseboards and into the wall studs. Do not glue or nail the baseboards to the laminate floor.

Install transition pieces at each doorway for a finished edge with the laminate and flooring in adjoining rooms.