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Chimney Installation for Wood Stoves

One of the most important components of installing a wood stove is the chimney. Install it properly, and you’ll keep your family and home safe, but if you take short cuts and bypass zoning requirements, you’re asking for trouble that can endanger lives, as well as your home. Many wood stove owners are now using Class A insulated chimneys because they’re built to withstand high temperatures and meet most fire safety regulations. Discuss this option with your chimney installer for a Type 1, Type 2 or Type 3 chimney installation configuration.
  1. Type 1

    • The Type 1 method is the most common installation technique for single story homes. The installer runs conventional black stovepipe upwards from the wood stove and then connects the pipe to a support box located right below the interior ceiling level. The Class A insulated chimney is then stacked and extended to the appropriate height to run through the ceiling and to the outdoors. The final height must follow recommendations of local building codes for your area. In most areas, the chimney must extend at least 3 feet above the roof surface and 2 feet higher than any part of the home within 10 feet of the chimney, whether you use Type 1, 2 or 3.

    Type 2

    • Many installers nickname the Type 2 technique as “out and up.” That’s because in this method, the chimney exits the wall behind the stove and travels along the outside surface of the home. In this scenario, the chimney never exits through the roof of the home. Homeowners will often box in the chimney with materials that match the home’s exterior, such as wood framing, stucco or siding. As is the case with all chimneys, the height must meet manufacturer recommendations and local building code specifications.

    Type 3

    • If you have a single story home with a slanted ceiling, installers use the Type 3 method. It is similar to Type 1, and the interior black stovepipe connects to the chimney at the ceiling level. Part of the chimney extends into the room to connect to the stovepipe. The other difference with Type 3 is that the installer attaches a bracket at roof level to the chimney for support because of the slanted roof. The chimney must extend above the roofline at a height in accordance with local building codes.

    Masonry Chimneys

    • Only professional, licensed masons can legally build masonry chimneys. And before you even get your heart set on a masonry chimney, check with the local building department, as many jurisdictions no longer allow masonry chimneys because of fire concerns. This is partially because chimney masonry work is virtually a dying craft, with few remaining tradesmen and professionals who even know how to construct a masonry chimney.

    Cautions and Considerations

    • Work with an experienced and licensed wood stove installer. Only install an Underwriter’s Laboratory approved chimney, as this will provide you with assurance that the chimney was tested and manufactured to meet national safety standards. Never pass the stovepipe through a window, wall, ceiling or floor to connect to the chimney, as this is a good way to start fires. Have your installer place a cap and screening on your chimney to prevent birds and squirrels from gaining access when not in use.