Nail the drip edge on the eaves using roofing nails spaced every 10 inches. Flatten the flashing as you nail. Give the flashing a 1-inch overlap.
Install self-adhesive, waterproof ice-and-water shields around the eaves, box vents, chimneys, dormers and ridges. If your eave overhangs by 1 foot and the your local building code calls for 2 feet of water shield from the outer wall, apply the shield 3 feet from the edge of the roof. Install the shield at least 12 inches up the base of the chimney.
Apply the roofing underlayment beginning about 2 inches from the edge of the ice-and-water shield at the eave. Overlap underlayments by 2 to 4 inches. The edges of the underlayment are often marked for the correct overlap. Work your way up the roof.
If you are installing new vent boxes, apply a bead of roofing cement around the base. Set the box flange firmly into place on the caulk and press firmly. Nail the corners and middle of the flange and apply cement on the nails and the outer edge.
Apply roofing cement around vents. Slide a flashing boot over each vent and settle it on the cement. Drive roofing nails to the top and sides of the base but not the bottom. Shingles will overlap the top of the flashing. The flashing will overlap the shingles at the bottom.
Measure the length of your shingles. Drive a nail on the side of the roof that distance up from the bottom edge. Drive a matching nail on the opposite side of the roof. Stretch a chalk line between the nails and snap a line.
Install starter row shingles on the chalk line. Work your way across the roof, butting the shingles tightly against one another. Use three nails, one about 1 inch from the upper top and two evenly spaced inner nails. The 3-D shingles typically have marks for nail guides.
Install the first row of shingles on top of the starter row. Begin with a whole shingle. Overlap the drip edge by 1/8 inch.
Mark a line down the center of a shingle, score it with a roofing knife and snap the shingle in half. Start the second row with this half shingle. The overlaps vary with the brand of 3-D shingle but are usually 5 inches. They typically have overlap marks that act as guides. The third row will begin with a full shingle. Alternate full and half shingles at the beginning of each course.
Apply shingles working toward valleys. Bend them at the valley and extend them at least 12 inches up the other side. Snap a chalk line down the center of the valley.
Apply shingles working from the opposite side of the valley. Cut the shingles at the chalk line, taking care not to cut the shingles underneath. Put roofing cement under the edge of the cut ends. Do not place nails within 6 inches of the center of the valley.
Fold shingles over the ridge. Work from one edge of the ridge to the other, overlapping shingles with 5 exposed inches as you go. Cut the end of the last shingle where it overlaps the edge of the roof. Use the piece you cut to overlap the exposed end, and seal the exposed nails with roofing cement.