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Do It Yourself: Enclosing the Bottom Half of Screening on Decks

A screened-in porch or deck is the perfect place to enjoy the outdoors or gather for family time. In fact, most any activity with most anyone -- or even just by yourself -- is more enjoyable in the privacy and comfort of a screened area. Simple screening, stretching from the roof framing down to the floor, does the job. However, it looks cheap and doesn't afford the privacy or security that walling-in the enclosure provides. With short half-walls surrounding the deck or porch, it's much easier to hang shades to block the worst of the sun or weather.

Things You'll Need

  • Prybar
  • Screwdrivers
  • Hammer
  • Tape measure
  • 2-by-4-inch lumber, water resistant
  • 1-by-2-inch lumber, water resistant
  • Carpenter's square
  • 16d nails
  • Carpenter's level
  • Thin wood shims
  • Wood trim (optional)
  • Screening base plates (optional)
  • Screening spline (optional)
  • Screen spline tool (optional)
  • Screening base plate caps (optional)
  • Utility knife
  • Siding or plywood
  • Finishing materials
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Instructions

    • 1

      Pull existing screening free from the porch. Vary your method of attack based on the current method of attachment. In some cases, the screen is installed in removable panels that fit between the roof and floor. Pull or pry the molding and stops that hold these panels in place. Long, unbroken expanses of screen -- especially on older homes -- are often simply tacked in place with the edges covered by thin pieces of trim. Newer homes commonly use screening systems that consist of horizontal and vertical base strips and spline, anchoring the screen permanently. Pull the screen and spline free, encouraging them with a screwdriver, but leave the base strips in place.

    • 2

      Measure the width of each wall or section of wall forming the deck. Depending on the deck style, the "wall" involved may stretch to the adjacent wall or be divided into smaller sections between vertical posts.

    • 3

      Cut two plates -- the horizontal boards running at the top and bottom of each wall, on either side of the vertical stud members -- for each wall or wall section needed. Make each measure the width measurement of the corresponding wall or section. Use either 1-by-2-inch boards for a dainty, decorative wall or 2-by-4-inch boards for a sturdier wall. Treated lumber or cedar are two good choices for exterior framing, as they resist moisture and rot readily.

    • 4

      Pair the plates together with the ends flush. Lay a straightedge or square across both. Mark the plates to indicate the end of the first stud and the end of each subsequent stud. Make an X on the far side of each line to show the side of the line where the stud is not present. If you are using 1-by-2-inch boards, the measurements correspond to ¾, 16¾, 33½ and similar. For 2-by-4-inch boards, use 1½ , 16½ , 33 inches and successive. Place one stud at the end of each pair of plates, regardless of the spacing.

    • 5

      Cut one stud per stud mark on each pair of plates. Determine the height you want the wall -- typically 3 feet or perhaps slightly taller or shorter -- to find the stud length. Subtract the thickness of the two plates used per section from the total wall height desired. For instance, a 39-inch wall using 2-by-4-inch framing requires 36-inch studs. 1-by-2-inch framing dictates studs 37½ inches in length, in contrast.

    • 6

      Set the bottom base plate on edge with the widest face running vertically. Nail the first stud, flush with the plate end, in place with its face running similarly. Use two 16d nails per stud end, driving the nails through the plate into the stud end in a slightly staggered pattern to avoid splitting the wood. Continue down the length of the plate, aligning each stud with the appropriate side of a stud mark. Cap the free ends, on the opposite side of the studs, with the top plate.

    • 7

      Erect each wall or wall section at the edge of the patio, in line with the corner posts or other present wall framing. Lay a carpenter's level on top of the wall and check for level. Slide a thin shim underneath the section to reposition as necessary for level. Check for plumb -- straight up and down -- with a level held against the side of each wall. Nail the wall in place once it sits correctly. Drive two 16d nails, slightly staggered, through the base plate into the floor wherever a joist is present. Nail through the end studs into the corner posts or other existing wall framing every 6 to 8 inches vertically.

    • 8

      Cut screening about 6 inches longer than needed in any given direction. Measure and cut screening system base plates to run horizontally across the top wall plate if you choose to remain with the screening system. Add any additional vertical plates desired. Attach the plates with screws as directed. Reinsert the top of the screen in the existing plates. Cut a length of spline to 8 inches longer than needed and push the spline into the channel, covering the screen. Keep a tight grip on the edge of the screen as you roll over the spline with a screen spline tool to secure it. Trim the excess screen before capping the screen plates. Alternatively, stretch the screen and staple the edges to the frame around each opening. Cover each edge of the screen with batten panels -- 1-inch thick boards -- or small trim.

    • 9

      Cover the interior and exterior with wood or siding as desired. Use waterproof material for best results. Finish with stain or paint as desired.