The Best DIY Solar Panels

Cells

• To achieve 18 volts of power, each solar panel needs 36 cells. Cells are typically 3-by-6 inches in size and It is worth a little extra money to buy pre-tabbed cells to save you a lot of work when wiring the cells. Grade-A cells are the best quality; lesser grades tend to have chips and other flaws that may lower efficiency levels. You should figure on spending $1 to $2 for each cell. As in many situations, the more you buy the cheaper the cost, so it pays to shop around.

Wiring

• Align cells on a flat surface in a rectangular formation consisting of four rows of nine cells each. Make sure all tabbing wires go in the same direction and the top cell's tab runs underneath the next solar cell, and so on. Solder the cells together using flux and solder according to directions provided in the package of cells. Rows of cells need to be connected with bus wires that run in the opposite direction of the tabbed wires you just soldered. Follow the directions to create a complete grid of cells.

Container Materials

• Sturdy, non-conductive acrylic plastic is best for backing your solar panel container. You will need 3/4-inch square stock for the sides of the frame; plastic works best here as well. Non-reflective, tinted glass provides a front for the solar panel box. A thin piece of Plexiglas, cut to the size of your cell configuration will be the backing for the cells.

Testing

• It is a good idea to test your panel of cells before gluing it to the thin backing. Lay the grid of panels on the backing and take the panel into direct sunlight. Hook a volt meter to the panel; it should read 18 to 20 volts. If the reading is not correct, you will need to check all soldered connections before moving on.

Assembly

• Apply a small dollop of silicone glue to the center, back of each cell to attach them to the thin plastic backing. Solar panel cells are extremely fragile. Take care to press down lightly when gluing cells into place. The completed cell panel needs to fit inside the cell container or box. Measure the panel of cells and add one and a half inches to both the height and width.

  Construct a frame with the 3/4-inch stock so the outside dimensions match that of the container backing. Use small screws to attach the container backing to the square stock frame. Do not forget to drill pilot holes for the screws to avoid cracking the plastic stock. Glue the solar panel into the container with silicone glue. Drill a hole in the bottom of the frame, pull the wires through and caulk the hole to prevent moisture from entering the container. Glue and screw the non-reflective, tinted glass panel to the front of the frame, completing the box.