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DIY Plastic Solar Panel

Solar panels consist of multiple solar cells wired together to produce a specific electrical power output. When sunlight and heat strikes a solar cell, a chemical interaction occurs between the layers of semiconductor material, which frees the electrons and produces an electrical current. Wiring the solar cells together increases the amount of electricity a solar panel can generate. A do-it-yourself (DYI) plastic solar panel or module has a plastic substrate and backing with wood or aluminum borders, which creates a shallow box for the solar cells. An acrylic glass cover provides protection for the solar cells.

Things You'll Need

  • 36 solar cells
  • Acrylic glass, black or white
  • Saber saw
  • Fine tooth blade
  • Bus Wire
  • Flux
  • Solder
  • Soldering iron
  • Multimeter
  • Caulk gun
  • Silicone caulk
  • Aluminum border material
  • Screws
  • Drill
  • Drill bit
  • Insulated wire
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Instructions

  1. Construct the Panel

    • 1

      Purchase white or black acrylic glass for the substrate and backing material. Insert a fine tooth blade in the saber saw to cut the acrylic glass backing and substrate. Make the dimensions for the frame backing 35 inches long by 27 inches wide. Use 32 inches long by 24 inches wide measurements for the substrate.

    • 2

      Lay out the location of each cell on the plastic substrate; mark the spots with a marker. Create of the top row of the solar panel. Place four cells ¼ inch from the top and side edges. Complete four strings of cells with nine cells each.

    • 3

      Maintain proper spacing between the cells by placing a ¼-inch tile spacer between the solar cells. Position the solar cell so that the tabs flow in the same direction. Make sure the tabs of the top solar cells go under the next solar cell.

    Build the Strings

    • 4

      Create the string. Apply rosin flux on the tabs of the cells. Lay the tab on top of each other. Solder the tabs from cell one to the back of cell two. Connect the tabs from cell two to the back of cell three. Heat the solder with the soldering iron to connect the tabs together. Repeat this process for each string.

    • 5

      Secure the strings in place on the substrate. Position the strings starting from the outer edge of the backing. Make every other string the opposite polarity (positive or negative) from the adjacent string. For example, if the first string has the positive terminal at the bottom, position the next string with the negative terminal at the bottom.

    • 6

      Place the solar string on the backside and apply a small amount of silicone adhesive in the center of each cell. Flip the string right side up and place the cells in the proper position on the substrate.

    • 7

      Connect the string together. Cut strips of bus wire about the width of two tabs, on two strings. Position the bus wire across the tabs on each string. Spread rosin flux on the bus wire; solder the bus wires to the tabs on the cell. Follow this procedure for each string, which results in two such connections, one at the top and one at the bottom.

    • 8

      Screw the substrate to the backing. Use ¾-inch-wide by ¾-inch-high aluminum material for the frame borders. Aluminum costs more, but can withstand harsh elements. Cut the side components for the frame 35 inches long; make the top and bottom borders 25 inches long. Attach the borders with screws.

    • 9

      Drill a hole in the bottom border and pull the insulated wires through the opening and seal around the wires with caulk. These wires are the main wires for the panel. Mount the acrylic glass cover to the top of the frame with silicone caulk.