Driveway with DIY Interlocking Concrete Pavers & Molds

Wash each interlocking paver mold with a mild liquid soap to remove any residue remaining from the mold creation process. Dry the mold with a piece of cloth, and then place it onto a flat work surface covered in newspaper. Make certain the work surface is strong enough to support the mold’s weight once you fill it with concrete.

Mix a batch of concrete in a mixer, adding water to the dry mix until you have a pourable concrete with the consistency of thick batter. Add any concrete tint desired to the concrete while mixing to color the pavers.

Spray the molds with mold release spray to prevent the concrete from leeching out the moisture of the molds and to keep the concrete from sticking to the mold’s surface once it sets.

Fill the molds to the top with the concrete. Tap the sides of the molds with a wooden stir stick to force any air in the concrete to the top, preventing the formation of voids in the center of your pavers.

Allow the concrete to cure for 48 hours until firm. Remove the pavers from the molds and place each paver aside for about 10 days to cure hard enough for use in the creation of your driveway surface.

Mark the driveway edges with lawn flags running along its perimeter. Dig a driveway foundation hole that’s the height of your pavers plus 6 inches within the marked perimeter with a spade. Create a slope for the driveway to aid in drainage. Angle the slope so that the depth drops 1 inch for every 8 feet of length, moving away from any nearby structures. Remove the flags.

Run a plate compactor over the base of the hole to compress the soil. The compression will create a steadier base for the driveway, preventing ground shifting beneath the pavers.

Pour 2 inches of gravel into the foundation hole to help with the drainage. Compact the gravel and then add 2 more inches of gravel, compacting the second layer as well.

Line the edges of the hole with edge restraints to keep the pavers in place. Drive 12-inch steel stakes through the holes located at the base of the restraints with a hammer to keep them from moving.

Cover the gravel with a layer of coarse sand, filling the hole to within the measured heights of the pavers from the top. Compress the sand, and then add more, compressing the additional sand layer until you reach the desired height. Run a screed bar across the sand in a back and forth sawing motion to level it out.

Lay the pavers onto the sand beginning on the edge of the driveway along the top and working your way down. Press the pavers into the sand when you lay them, Butt the pavers tightly together, using the interlocking edges to hold them in uniformly straight lines, and the edge restraints to lock them into the desired driveway shape.

Cut pavers when needed to fit them in place using a circular saw. Place a mason’s blade onto the saw and wear a respirator and safety goggles while cutting to avoid breathing in concrete dust and prevent injury from concrete shards.

Cover the surface with a rubber mat. Run the compactor over the mat to press the pavers into the sand bed. Check the paver levels every three feet or so with a carpenter’s level. Adjust the paver depth in the sand to level them out with one another so that you have a smooth driveway surface.

Cover the surface with polymetric sand. Sweep the sand into the joints between the pavers with a push broom. Use the compactor to drive the sand to the base of the pavers, and then repeat the process until the sand is at the height of the paver surface. Remove any excess sand from the driveway with the broom. Water the surface of the driveway with a garden hose lightly misting the surface. Wet the sand in order to cause it to activate and harden. Allow the sand to harden for 24 hours.

Cover the surface of the pavers with concrete sealant to protect against water staining. Spread the sealant with a squeegee and then allow it to dry for 72 hours before using the driveway surface.