Measure the distance from the nearest wall corner to the edge of the sliding door frame with a steel bladed tape measure. Don't use a fabric bladed tape measure; this can lead to incorrect measurements. Deduct 1/4 inch from the measurement for wood siding or 1/8 inch for vinyl and cement board siding to determine the finished length.
Make a pencil mark on the front face of a length of shiplap siding to designate the finished length. Clamp the length of siding in the vise of a power miter box with the pencil mark aligned with the saw blade. Activate the saw to cut the piece to length.
Measure the height of the siding. Mark the height of the siding on the side of the house, starting 1 inch below the point the framing meets the foundation. Continue marking the height until you reach the top of the wall.
Align the top of the cut length of siding with the lowest pencil mark. Drive an 8d nail through the siding with a claw hammer. Ensure the nail sits within 1 inch of the top of the siding. Place a level on the top ledge of the siding. Adjust the siding until it's level. Drive one nail every 16 inches until the siding is secure. Install all remaining siding using the described method.
Push foam backer rod in the gap between the sliding door frame and the ends of the shiplap siding. Cut the backer rod flush by sliding a knife blade across the material. Do not pull the rod as you cut; this can case the rod to shift.
Open a tube of latex caulk. Place the tube in the body of a caulk gun. Apply a thick bead of caulk over the backer rod-filled gaps surrounding the sliding door. Pull the tip of a spoon along the caulk to smooth it into the seam. Allow the caulk to dry for 24 hours before painting the siding.