How to Frame a Double-Pocket Set of Doors

Snap two chalk lines 3 1/2 inches apart on your subfloor to indicate the planned wall containing the double-pocket set of doors. Measure the length of one of the lines. Mark a 2-by-4 with this measurement, using a carpenter’s pencil and a speed square, and cut the 2-by-4 on a chop saw to create a top plate.

Consult the pocket door manufacturer’s instructions to learn the required width of the framed opening. This may be four times the door width -- or four times the door width plus 1 1/2 inches or a similar figure, depending on the make and model of the pocket door. Mark the needed width on your subfloor with a carpenter’s pencil and a speed square, creating two lines perpendicular to the chalk lines.

Measure from each pencil mark to the nearer wall. Transfer these measurements to 2-by-4 lumber and cut two pieces to act as sole plates.

Stack two pieces of 2-by-4 scrap lumber on the floor. Measure from the ceiling to the top of the scraps to determine how long your studs should be. Mark and cut 2-by-4 lumber, one piece for each end of the wall frame, one on either side of the rough opening for the pocket doors, and one additional stud for each 16 inches on center.

Cut a header out of 2-by-4 lumber to the width of the rough opening. Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for how much higher the header should be than the door height -- for example, the manufacturer may call for the header to be 4 1/2 inches higher, depending on the make and model.

Clamp the sole plates to each end of the top plate. Mark the stud locations on the sides of the clamped plates. On either side of the rough opening, mark locations for two studs: a king stud, which runs floor to ceiling, and a jack stud, running from the floor to right underneath the header.

Unclamp the plates and lay them on the subfloor about 10 feet apart. Lay the studs between the plates. Mark the king studs with the location of the header. Lay the header in place. Measure the distance from the bottom of the sole plate to the header. Transfer this measurement to 2-by-4s and cut them to create two jack studs. Lay the jack studs between the sole plate and the header, touching the king studs.

Nail two 16d nails through the plates into each stud. Nail two 16d nails through the studs into the header. Face nail the jack studs to the king stud with 6d nails.

Measure the distance between the header and the top plate. Transfer this measurement to 2-by-4 lumber and cut short studs, called cripple studs, one for each 16 inches on center. Mark the header and the top plate with the cripple stud locations. Nail the cripple studs in place with 16d nails.

Lift the framed wall for the double pocket doors up with the help of an assistant. Nudge the framing into place above your chalk lines on the subfloor. Check that the framing is plumb with a spirit level. Nail the sole plate though the stud bays to the subfloor. Nail the top plate to your ceiling joists with 16d nails.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to assemble the pocket door frame, which fits within your rough opening. Nail or screw the pocket-door frame’s header, which contains a track for the doors, to the split jambs. Lift the pocket-door frame into the rough opening. Check that it is level and plumb with a spirit level, and square with a framing square. Nail the completed pocket door frame to each jack stud and to the main header.