How to Build a Front Door Overhang

Measure the width of the door using a tape measure. Add 12 inches to this measurement to find the width of the overhang. Cut three pieces of 2-by-4 lumber to this width, using a circular saw. Cut three pieces of 2-by-4 lumber 18 inches long. Cut two pieces of 2-by-4 lumber 12 inches long.

Screw one 18-inch piece of 2-by-4 to either end of one 4-inch wide face of one of the overhang width pieces, using two countersunk 4-inch long screws per joint. Screw the third 18-inch piece to the overhang width piece equidistant between the end pieces, to form an “E” shaped frame.

Hold the frame against the wall 2 inches above the top of the door frame so there is a 6-inch overlap on either side of the door. Drill holes through the overhang-width piece and into the wall every 6 inches along the length of the wood, using a hammer drill. Place the frame on the ground. Fill the holes in the wall with wall plugs.

Screw one of the two remaining overhang-width pieces to the end of the 18-inch long pieces using two countersunk 4-inch long screws per joint, to form a rectangular frame with a center support beam. Line the holes in the frame up with the holes in the wall. Screw the frame to the wall using one 6-inch long screw in each hole.

Cut one end of the 12-inch pieces at a 45-degree angle along the 4-inch wide face, using a miter saw. Hold the cut ends flush against the wall below the frame. Drill and screw the pieces to the wall using 6-inch long screws. Screw the other end of the pieces to the inside edges of the frame using lag bolts, to form the roof supports.

Hold the remaining overhang-width piece against the wall 18 inches above the frame. Drill and screw the piece to the wall in the same manner as you screwed in the frame. This piece forms the wall plate for the roof of the overhang. Measure the distance from the top of the wall plate diagonally down to the outer edge of the frame. Add 6 inches to this length to find the roof length.

Divide the overhang width by 6 to find the number of beams required. Cut this many pieces of 2-by-4 to the roof length. Stand the beams on the wall plate and the outer edge of the frame. Hold a plumbline to the top corner of the beams on the end by the wall. Draw a line down the beams using the plumbline as a guide.

Cut along this line with the miter saw to make the beams sit flush against the wall. Stand the beams on the wall plate and frame again. Draw a vertical line at the point where the beams touch the wall plate and frame, using the plumbline as a guide. Bisect the lines with a horizontal line using a pencil and ruler, to form a notch. Cut the notches out using a jigsaw.

Stand the beams on the wall plate and frame. The notches let the wood pieces sit flush with one-another. Screw one beam to either end of the wall plate and frame using 6-inch long screws. Screw the other beams every 6 inches in between the end beams. Divide the roof length by 4 to find the number of support joists required. Cut this number of 1-by-2 lumber pieces to the width of the overhang.

Screw a support joist across the top and bottom of the roof using 2-inch long screws. Screw the other support joists in between the top and bottom joists, leaving a 2-inch gap between each joist. Cut strips of roofing underfelt to the width of the overhang using a craft knife. Nail the first strip across the bottom of the roof using clout nails and a hammer.

Nail the other strips of felt above the first one, with a 1-inch overlap on each strip. Nail a row of slate roofing tiles along the bottom of the roof using 1 1/2-inch long galvanized roofing nails. Lay a row of tiles above this first row, with a 1-inch overlap over the top of the first row. Alternate nailing and laying rows of tiles until the roof is covered. Nail the final row to the roof.