How to Frame Indoor French Doors

French doors consist of two doors hinged to opposing jambs that swing out from the doorway’s center. Although they come in a variety of styles, they’re generally wooden and can be finished to match the surrounding trimwork. The first step toward the successful installation of interior French doors is constructing a square, properly sized framework. The opening in such framework is typically about one inch wider and half an inch taller than the jamb frame of a prehung unit, according to the book “The Complete Guide to Windows & Entryways.” To ensure the rough opening is sized correctly, buy the door before building the framework.

Tape measure
2-by-4 stock
Circular saw
Framing square
Hammer
10d nails
16d nails
4-foot level
Wood clamp (optional)
Reciprocating saw

Instructions

- 1
  Measure and mark the length of the wall you’re building on two pieces of flat, straight 2-by-4 stock. Cut each piece to size with a circular saw to create the frame’s top and bottom plates.
- 2
  Lay the top and bottom plates on the floor with the ends flush and long sides together. Measure the width of the door unit. Mark the layout for the door opening on both plates.
- 3
  Mark out the rough opening on both plates a half an inch beyond the door’s width markings. This extra space allows you to position, shim and plumb the door into place.
- 4
  Mark both plates for the jack and king studs. The jack studs will support the door’s jambs, while the king studs reinforce the jack studs. Mark the plates 2 inches beyond the rough opening markings for the jack studs, and 4 inches beyond the rough opening markings for the king studs.
- 5
  Lay out the position of the remaining wall studs on both plates, spacing the center of each stud every 16 inches, starting from the center of the king stud.
- 6
  Measure and cut the wall studs, which will run from floor to ceiling, minus the combined heights of the top and bottom plates. Cut the king studs slightly longer than the distance between the plates.
- 7
  Cut the jack studs to a length equal to the height of the rough opening minus 1 1/2 inches to allow for the bottom plate.
- 8
  Use 10d nails to secure the king studs to the corresponding markings on the top and bottom plates.
- 9
  Secure the jack studs to the bottom plate with 10d nails, then nail the jack studs to the king studs with 10d nails.
- 10
  Install the remaining wall studs, nailing them into place through the top and bottom plates.
- 11
  Measure and cut a header for the rough opening. The header in a nonload-bearing wall is a 2-by-4 that lies flat on top of the jack studs and fits flush between the two king studs.
- 12
  Install the header, nailing it into place through the king studs with 10d nails.
- 13
  Measure out and cut a cripple stud, which is a short stud that runs between the top plate and the header. It helps transfer the structural load to the header.
- 14
  Position the cripple stud half way between the king studs. Drive 10d nails through the header and the top plate to secure it into place.
- 15
  Lift the framework into position. Use a 4-foot level to ensure it’s plumb. Clamp the level to the frame as you tap it into place, if desired, to keep your hands free.
- 16
  Anchor the frame to the ceiling and floor by driving 16d nails through the top and bottom plates. Do not nail the section of the bottom plate between the jack studs.
- 17
  Use a reciprocating saw to cut away the bottom plate between the jack studs in the rough opening.

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