How to Replace a Double Entry Door With a Single Door & Sidelights

Remove the Door Casing

• 1

  Score the casing to wall joint by cutting along all joining sides with a utility knife to break the paint and silicon seal.

• 2

  Gently pry the casing away from the wall with a pry bar by inserting the thin edge of the bar between the casing and wall board and pushing outward. Focus your efforts near the finish nails to avoid cracking the casing.

• 3

  Remove the finish nails by tapping them with a hammer from the back through the front of the casing. Stack the casing aside in a safe location so it is ready for reinstallation when the door and sidelights are hung.

Double Door Removal

• 4

  Unscrew the hinges from the door frame using a power drill equipped with a screwdriver bit and remove the old doors.

• 5

  Locate the fasteners securing the door frame to the rough framing. You'll see a 1/4-inch to 1-inch gap between the door frame and the rough framing. The fasteners are often at or near the location of the old shims.

• 6

  Determine the type of fasteners used and remove them using the appropriate tool. If the frame is secured to the home with nails, pry the nails loose with the pry bar and use the claw end of a hammer to remove the nails fully. If the frame is secured with screws, use a power drill equipped with a screwdriver bit to remove the screws.

• 7

  Remove the old door frame from the entry opening and discard it.

Install the New Door and Sidelights

• 8

  Move the new door frame with the door and sidelights into the rough entry opening. You will need at least one other person to move and stabilize the door frame, as it will be heavy and cumbersome.

• 9

  Align the interior side of the new door frame with the wall board in the entry.

• 10

  Center the frame within the rough opening. Using a measuring tape, measure the gaps on the left and right sides. Adjust the door frame until the gaps are equal.

• 11

  Measure up from the bottom of the door frame 20 inches on each side and insert two shims in opposition to one another -- one pointing out from inside the home and the other pointing in from outside the home. As the shims come together, they will become wedged between the door frame and the rough framing. Ensure this wedge is snug.

• 12

  Measure up 20 inches from the lower shims on each side of the door frame and insert two more shims, again in direct opposition to one another, and push them together until they're snug.

• 13

  Measure up 20 inches from the middle shims on each side of the door frame and insert two more shims, again in direct opposition to one another, and push them together until they're snug.

• 14

  Hold a 4-foot carpenter's level flat against each side of the door frame and adjust the shims in and out until the vertical plumb bubble is centered.

• 15

  Drill a pilot hole through the door frame and shims to the rough framing using a 3/32-inch wood drill bit.

• 16

  Drill a 1/8-inch deep counter sink hole at each of the pilot holes with a 3/8-inch wood drill bit.

• 17

  Attach the door frame to the rough framing of the house using a power drill to drive 3-inch wood screws through the predrilled pilot holes.

• 18

  Score each shim with a utility knife by cutting along the wall and door frame junctions. Break the shims along the scored lines. Remove and discard the excess shim material.

Finishing Up

• 19

  Align the old door casing with the new door frame, fastening it to the door frame and wallboard by driving 2-inch finish nails through the old finish nail holes.

• 20

  Fill the nail holes and countersunk screw holes with wood filler. Apply a 1/4- to 3/8-inch dollop of wood filler to the edge of a 2-inch putty knife. Push the wood filler firmly into the finish nail and countersunk screw holes and remove excess filler by dragging the putty knife gently across the surface of the door frame and casing.

• 21

  Allow the wood filler to dry and sand each filled hole with 120 grit sandpaper.

• 22

  Lightly sand the entire surface of the reinstalled door casing and the countersunk screw holes with 220 grit sandpaper.

• 23

  Repaint the door casing by brushing on two to three light coats of interior paint to match the existing interior entry moldings.

• 24

  Lightly brush a coat of exterior paint matching the new finish of the door frame over the filled screw holes.