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How to Build a Shaker Door

Shaker doors are defined by simplicity, the use of multiple thinner boards framed by thicker boards to make a full door, and the showcasing of the natural beauty of the wood rather than painting or staining the wood to make an artificial-looking product. Using basic, high-quality boards vertically to make the main door panel and then applying shorter boards across them horizontally keeps the door boards fixed in place and gives the entire project a rustic and simple feeling of quality. The door is then mounted in place just like any other door.

Things You'll Need

  • 2 ash, cedar or other hardwood boards, 1 3/8-by-5-by-80-inch
  • 3 ash, cedar or other hardwood boards, 1 3/8-by-5-by-20-inch
  • Table saw
  • 14 ash, cedar or other hardwood boards, 1/4-by-3-by-33 1/2-inch
  • Drill
  • Drill bits
  • Pegs
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps
  • Fine-grit sandpaper
  • Light stain
  • Polyurethane
  • Brush
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Instructions

    • 1

      Run two 1 3/8-by-5-by-80-inch boards and three 1 3/8-by-5-by-20-inch boards through a table saw to make a 1/4-inch groove along only one of the long, thin edges of each board. Make the groove directly in the center of the long, thin side. Select one of the 1 3/8-by-5-by-20-inch boards and give it an identical groove on its other long, thin edge.

    • 2

      Position the two 1 3/8-by-5-by-80-inch boards on the working surface. Make them parallel to each other. Set the largest ends against the working surface and make the boards 20 inches apart with the grooves facing each other. Arrange the three 1 3/8-by-5-by-20-inch boards between the long boards so they form a rectangular frame with the double-grooved board directly in the center of the frame.

    • 3

      Pull one of the long boards away from the frame and slide seven 3-by-33, 1/4-inch boards into the slots in the two exposed squares, so they slide into place between the 1 3/8-by-5-by-20-inch boards and push up against the groove of the other long board. Brush wood glue along both long edges of the first and last boards and along one edge of the center five boards. Return the original long board to its place and press the boards that form the central panel together tightly. Wipe off any wood glue that squeezes out between the boards.

    • 4

      Drill two holes into each of the outer frame boards at the inside of each joint with another frame board, including the double-grooved middle boards, for a total of 24 holes. Pairs of holes should line up exactly. Put a peg into each adjoining pair of holes and slide the frame boards together so they are tight. Once the frame fits well, put a dollop of wood glue on each end of each peg and clamp the frame in place. Let it dry overnight before moving on to installation.

    • 5

      Sand all visible exteriors of the door with fine grit sandpaper. Wipe the door clean to remove all sawdust. Apply a thin coat of light stain to the door using smooth, even brush strokes. Brush along with the grain of the wood, leaving no bubbles or excess stain on the wood. Allow the first coat of stain to dry for two hours.

    • 6

      Reapply additional coats of stain as needed following the same procedure as the first coat. Allow four hours to pass before applying polyurethane.

    • 7

      Brush on a coat of polyurethane using the same application procedure as the stain. Let the first coat dry for two hours and continue to apply polyurethane coats as desired, applying at least three coats for protection against consistent use.