How to Build a Door in Wall Paneling

Inspect the area. Check that the door will be able to open fully and decide which way you want it to open -- inward, outward, to the left or right. Proper planning helps prevent surprises later.

Look for evidence of wiring, pipes or duct work running through your wall, such as electrical switches and outlets, plumbing fixtures or air vents. In many cases, wiring can be carefully tucked to the side when building your door. However, plumbing fixtures or heat registers, for instance, located along the wall may indicate problematic installations. Relocate the door if necessary.

Locate the studs in the wall where you wish to install the new door. In many instances trim will run over paneling joints to hide the nails. Measure over 16 to 24 inches -- the standard spacing of wall studs -- from the trim to find the next stud. Tap on the wall and determine if the wall sounds hollow and gives, or if it feels and sounds solid, indicating the presence of a stud.

Measure up from the floor to the height of the door opening required and mark on the paneling, over both studs. Consult the dimensions required for the door you will install to ensure the opening is tall enough. Typical interior doors are 6 feet 8 inches tall. Add 2 inches to the door size to find the height needed. Thus, a standard 98-inch-tall door is marked at 100 inches from the floor to the top of the opening.

Align a level with the top marks. Check to ensure the marks are level, then draw a line along its length to mark your cut guide.

Calculate the door opening width by allowing for two studs on either side of the opening, each 1 1/2 inches thick. The left stud is already present, so add 1 1/2 inches for each additional stud required. You will need one more on the left stud and at least one on the right -- two, unless the studs present are exactly the door width with 3 inches extra.

Thus, a typical 30-inch-wide door, with studs 16 inches apart, would need an opening measuring 30 + 1 1/2 + 1 1/2 + 1 1/2 since the studs are too narrow at 32 inches apart to accommodate an extra 3 inches of width.

Measure over, from the left to the right side of the door, the width required for your door. Mark in three locations and connect with a straight line down the wall.

Score the wall paneling with a utility knife, running down the stud edge located on the left of the future door opening. Working with a knife allows you to feel for the stud edge underneath. Cut the opening back flush with the stud edge. This stud will form one side of the door opening.

Continue cutting across the top of the door opening, using the guide to lead your knife. Hold a straightedge up while cutting to ensure straight, clean cuts if it helps.

Cut through the paneling on the opposite side of the door, following the cut guide. Don't worry about the wood studs underneath the paneling; you will remove these shortly.

Peel the wall paneling away to reveal the wall framing beneath. Ensure that no wires or other obstacles are present before cutting out any studs that intrude on the door frame area. Cut through the bottom wall plate as well -- the board resting on the floor to which studs attach.

Find the distance between the top and bottom wall plate. Cut a 2-by-4-inch board to span this gap on the right side of the door opening. Set it in place, allowing for the width of the door plus 4 1/2 inches, and nail at an angle through the stud ends into the plates above and below the stud. If the stud on the right side is already present and rests the width of the door plus 3 inches away, skip this step.

Cut a board to measure the width of the door rough opening. Wedge it in place horizontally between the left and right vertical door studs at the door height required (height of door plus 2 inches). Nail through the board -- called a header -- into the studs on either side. Drive the nails at an angle, a process called toenailing.

Create two studs to run between the floor and the header. Cut to size. Wedge in place and nail through it into the stud beside it. These studs, sometimes called trimmers, support the weight of the header and the door itself.

Cut one short stud, measuring from the top plate down to the header, for every 8 to 10 inches of door width. Toenail in place. These studs, called cripples, help support the weight of the wall above.

Install the door according to the manufacturer's instructions. Cover any gaps around the new door installation with trim to complete.