How to Drywall Around Exposed Beams

Measure the depth and length of the beams. Set a piece of drywall with the finished side up on the sawhorses and use a carpenter's square to mark the measurements on the drywall.

Place a stiff straightedge along the line and hold it firmly in place. Use the utility knife to score the drywall along the line. Press firmly. Hold the edge of the drywall after making sure the scored line isn't resting on the sawhorses. Spread your hands apart and snap the drywall downward so it breaks along the score. Flip the drywall over and use the utility knife to cut through the paper backing. Cut the second piece of drywall for the other side of the beam.

Use drywall screws to attach the side pieces to the beam. Position screws about 6 inches apart and about 1 inch from the edge of the drywall. Screw until the heads are very slightly countersunk.

Measure the width of the piece of drywall for the bottom of the beam from the edge of one side of the piece of drywall to the edge of the other, so that when the last piece is screwed into place it will cover the exposed edges of the side pieces. Measure the length of the beam. Cut the drywall and screw it into place.

Spread joint compound over the screw heads with a drywall knife. Scrape the knife across the joint compound to remove excess. Allow the joint compound to dry for the length of time recommended by the manufacturer and then sand it smooth.

Spread a thin layer of joint compound along the edges of all three pieces of drywall. Fold drywall tape around the edge of the beam, covering the seam in the drywall completely, and press it into place. Spread a layer of joint compound over the tape and use a taping knife to scrape off excess. Let the joint compound dry and sand it smooth. Apply another layer of joint compound if necessary to obscure the edges of the tape. Let it dry and sand it smooth.