How to Make an Inverted Tray Ceiling in the Center of a Room

Position a ladder within reach of the ceiling. Move a stud finder along the ceiling to locate the ceiling joists. Mark each joist with a line in the direction of the joist. Make a second set of marks near the opposite wall. Extend a chalk line over the two marks and snap a chalk line to show the location of each ceiling joist on the existing ceiling.

Measure away from each wall 4 feet and draw a line. Repeat for each wall. This inside outline is the shape of the tray ceiling. Trace over the pencil line with a marker to make it easy to see from below. Make any alterations to your tray size and shape by looking at it from below.

Measure for your furring boards, which are placed over framing boards, walls or ceilings to create a level surface suitable for nailing. Measure 3 1/2 inches away from the wall and make a mark. Measure 16 inches away from the same wall. Subtract 1 3/4 inches and make a mark at the 14 3/4-inch measurement. Add 1 3/4 to the 16 inches and make a second mark at the 17 3/4-inch measurement. This will position a 2-by-4 on its flat side at 16 inches on center.

Measure from the same wall to 32 inches. Subtract 1 3/4 inches and make a mark at 30 1/4 inches. Add 1 3/4 inches to the 32-inch measurement and make your second mark at 33 3/4 inches. This is where your second 2-by-4 will be positioned to be 16 inches on center from the first board. Continue using this measurement system across the entire ceiling. Finish with a 3 1/2-inch board and mark where the ceiling touches the opposite wall.

Measure the length of the wall perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Cut one or more 2-by-4s to this measurement. You may need two or more boards for large ceiling measurements. Position the board with the 4-inch side flat against the ceiling at your first 3 1/2-inch mark. Position it against the wall. Nail two nails through the furring at each ceiling joist location. Where board ends join, trim the board end to fit halfway over the joist so the ends of the next board can share the same joist location for nailing. Repeat this for all of the full-length boards.

Cut 4-foot-long sections of board for the tray area. You only want to attach furring to the ceiling in the 4-foot perimeter of the ceiling. The center part of the ceiling won't receive new furring. Determine the depth of your tray ceiling. The furring will give you a finished 2-inch-deep tray. If you add a second layer of flat 2-by-4s, you'll have a 3 1/2-inch-deep tray. If you add a second layer of 2-by-4s on end, you'll have a 5 1/2-inch-deep tray.

Add a second layer of flat furring by following the same technique you used for the first layer. Start perpendicular to the existing layer of furring. Measure 3 1/2 inches for your first board against the wall. Measure 16 inches and add and subtract to center the board. Leave the area outlined in marker empty. Nail in your second layer of furring.

Make your second layer of furring on end. Start perpendicular to your existing layer of furring. Measure 1 1/2 inches for your first board against the wall. Measure 16 inches and add 1 3/4 inches and mark. Measure 16 inches and subtract 1 3/4 inches and mark. This will give you the placement of the board along its shorter measurement when it's positioned on end. Continue the measurements across the ceiling, leaving the center portion of the tray open.

Measure the width of your tray outline and multiply by 4. Measure the length of your tray outline and multiply by 4. Add the measurements together. Tilt your table saw fence 45 degrees back. Position a 2-inch-square board with the board length parallel to the fence. Insert 45-degree angle blocks to support the front of the board, allowing you to cut the board diagonally along its length. Cut enough diagonal block for your total length measurement.

Cut two diagonally cut boards to your tray width measurement minus 1/2 inch. Position the board along the lower width inside edge of the furring boards, with the taper running toward the tray ceiling. Nail the board to each furring strip. Repeat for the second side. Cut two diagonally cut boards to the tray length measurement minus 3 1/2 inches. Position the boards along the lower length inside edge of the furring boards, with the taper running toward the tray ceiling. The bottom tips of your diagonally cut boards should just touch one other when nailed to the furring boards.

Place a board flush against the diagonally cut tapered edge. It should angle toward the original ceiling. Draw a line on the ceiling where the board edge touches the ceiling. Repeat on all sides. Draw a second outline. Measure the width of this outline and subtract 1/2 inch and cut two more diagonal boards. Place the board with a short side down and the long diagonal cut sloping toward the tray. Test your fit by placing a scrap board over the two angled width boards, ensuring the scrap is flush against the angle. Line up your board so it's centered, then nail it to the ceiling joist. Repeat for the other side. Cut your length side boards 3 1/2 inches shorter than the measurement so they fit. Test-fit and nail.

Cover the tray ceiling in drywall. Measure and cut the drywall to fit. Cut the ends of the drywall to overlap half of a furring strip. Place the drywall straightedge on the drywall and drag a utility knife down the drywall to cut the paper. Press the drywall away from you to snap it in half. Cut the other side of the paper. Screw the drywall to the furring with drywall screws. Cover the flat ceiling area first. Measure, cut and screw along the tapered tray area last. Screw into the diagonal furring boards. Use paper corner tape and flexible mesh tape to cover corners and joints. Apply joint compound with a wide drywall knife, scraping off the excess.