Before you jump in with drywall sheets and nails, measure the ceiling dimensions and choose the installation orientation that allows for the fewest seams in the end result. If possible, run the long side of the rectangular-shaped boards perpendicular to the ceiling joists. When it comes to attaching the material, double-nail and glue it in place with construction adhesive. To some this might seem like overkill, but that's a lot of weight fighting the force of gravity. Ceiling drywall has a better chance of popping nails and coming loose, and, unfortunately, cracks and other flaws show more on a ceiling than a wall.
Lay the first piece of ceiling drywall in a corner, and work your way out. For center joists that land in the center of a sheet, lay a single bead of glue down the joist. In other areas, either the single bead, zigzag or snake pattern will do. After adhering the glue, insert the nails. Protective eye wear is a good idea, not because the material is toxic, but because getting drywall dust in your eyes is annoying and will slow down your work progress. Using a drywall hammer with a special rounded head, move in about 1/8 inch from the edges to drive your nails. Space the nails about 2 feet apart and double every other one.
The finishing step is the most critical when it comes to appearance. Sometimes called mudding, finishing is the process of applying a liquid filler (which hardens) to indentations caused by nail heads and joints formed where board edges meet. The purpose is to create a smooth, attractive surface. The process is simple though time consuming and labor intensive. First apply the compound filler and reinforcing tape, and allow it to dry for 24 hours. Sand it smooth, and repeat the process. A light third coat might be needed, though no sanding should be necessary. When the mudding is complete, you're ready to hang the walls. Finish drywalling the room completely before painting.