Suspended Ceiling Installation Guide

Plan the layout of your ceiling on paper. Keep all cut tiles on the perimeter of the room. Set the ceiling up so that you use as many large pieces as possible since larger pieces will look better than smaller pieces.

Measure 6 inches down from the bottom of your ceiling joists. Mark this measurement with a pencil. Use a laser level to show you where you will need to attach the wall molding.

Place the bottom of the wall molding on the laser line and secure it to wall studs with nails. The wall molding is "L" shaped. Position one side flat against the wall with the other side sticking out into the room. Use a stud finder to locate the studs if you cannot see them.

Butt the two ends of the wall molding together at inside corners. One piece should be flat against the corner with the other piece placed on top of that piece. For inside corners, cut each end of the molding at a 45-degree angle with tin snips. The edges of each piece should then meet at the corner.

Measure where the first main beam will be placed. This is where the first tile edge will end and the second tile edge will begin. Follow the plan you prepared in Step 1 to determine the location of this mark. The main beams will be placed running the opposite direction than the ceiling beams. Make the same measurement on the opposite side of the room. Connect the two measurements with a chalk line and snap the line across the ceiling beams.

Measure the distance from the mark in the previous step to the next mark. Repeat the same procedure on the opposite side of the room and snap another chalk line. Continue this until all main beam chalk lines have been snapped. Each chalk line will be 4 feet apart.

Screw an eyebolt into every third joist along each chalk line. Cut one hanger wire for each eyebolt. The hanger wire should be at least 12 inches longer than the drop from your ceiling joists to where your extended ceiling will be.

Push 6 inches of wire into an eyebolt. Bend the end of the wire down and twist the wire around itself three times to hold it in place. Repeat this with each eyebolt. Use the laser level to determine where to bend the bottom of the wire. Line the laser up with the ledge of the wall molding pieces. Bend the wire at the location the beam hits it.

Place the end of the first main runner beam onto one side of the ceiling molding. Place the bent wire through the nearest hole on the main beam. Bend the wire up and wrap it around itself three times. Continue across the room, inserting the remaining wires into holes. Cut the runner beams, with tin snips, to fit across the length of the room.

Connect the ends of two runner beams if your room is longer than the runner. Do this by pushing the tab of one runner beam into the slot of another. Use an additional eyebolt and support wire at these connections. Continue running the beams until you have one beam under each chalk line and have used all the wires to support the beams.

Fit the cross tee tabs into the slots on the runner beams; the tabs are found on the ends of each cross tee. Push one side into a runner beam first and then push in the second side. There will be a cross tee every 2 feet for smaller panels, or 4 feet for larger panels.

Cut the cross tees to fit in the smaller spaces at the perimeter of the ceiling grid. This will cause the tab on one end to be gone. Rest the edge of the cross tee on the lip of the wall molding.

Tilt a ceiling panel and lift it up into the square of the grid. Straighten out the panel and bring it straight down to rest on the runner beams and cross tees. Repeat with all panels. Cut the perimeter panels, to fit in the smaller spaces, with a utility knife.