Ceiling Drywall & Roof Repair

Early Assessment

• Before attempting to repair the drywall in the ceiling, do a thorough assessment of the drywall to fully understand the extent and nature of the damage. Poor repairs can compromise the structural integrity of the ceiling or roof, which can lead to even worse damage. If a part of the building shifts, if the walls are slanted, if the foundation walls are cracked or if there's erosion cut into the bottom of the foundation, the building has structural damage and you'll need to call a structural engineer.

Shrinkage Cracks

• Drywall ceilings can develop cracks resulting from shrinkage, especially diagonal cracks as the entire house settles toward the center during the first winter. This usually occurs soon after the house is built. Builders usually offer a warranty so that they can perform the repairs when the weather warms up. The builder raises the center girder and reshims it on the tops of the piers to make door openings in cross partitions square and close cracks.

Truss Problems

• Most roof frames are made of trusses, which are triangular frames that go from wall to wall. Insulation can cause one part of the truss to have a temperature that varies from another part of the truss, which can lead to part of the truss shrinking. This pulls away the bottom member, lifting part of the ceiling off. This requires a repair of the drywall tape at the joint between the wall and ceiling.

Water Damage

• When the damaged drywall develops water damage due to rain, use tarps to block the rain and give the structure time to dry. Some structures will repair themselves after they dry. Regardless, the nature of the roof damage will be more apparent after the roof dries. If the ceiling drywall is contaminated with toxic water, sagging or mildewing, consider replacing the drywall. There's mold-resistant drywall, but this drywall costs more.

Drywall Replacement

• When removing and replacing damaged drywall, scrape off all the glue from the joists after removing the old drywall so that the new drywall fits flatly against the joists. When the joists don't back the drywall, use blocking to support the drywall. Attach the drywall to the joists using quick-setting joint compounds and fiberglass tape.