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How to Build a Shower With a Slanted Ceiling

Building a new shower is a project that is often part of a bathroom remodel. It's extremely important when constructing the shower that all components are properly installed to prevent leaks, which can cause water-related problems elsewhere in your home. Determine whether the bathroom is situated in a location where you'll have to contend the the slope of the roof affecting the installation. If this is the case, you need to make some adjustments when building the shower.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • 3/4-inch plywood
  • Circular saw
  • Safety goggles
  • Jigsaw
  • 2-by-10 boards
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • 2-by-4 boards
  • Roofing felt
  • Mesh
  • Utility knife
  • Stapler
  • Staples
  • Bottom flange of drain pipe assembly
  • Duct tape
  • Rag
  • Mortar
  • Shower liner
  • Roofing nails
  • Sealant
  • Plastic drain plate
  • Socket wrench
  • Vacuum cleaner
  • Shower pan
  • Level
  • Shims
  • Drill
  • Galvanized screws
  • PVC trap
  • PVC primer
  • PVC cement
  • Rubber compression gasket
  • Wooden block
  • Rubber mallet
  • Drain screen
  • Cement backerboards
  • Carbide-tipped masonry drill bit (for jigsaw)
  • Masonry screws
  • Fiberglass seam tape
  • Primer
  • Paint brushes
  • Paint
  • Tiles
  • Thinset mortar
  • Notched trowel
  • Tile spacers
  • Tile cutter
  • Grout
  • Grout float
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Damp sponge
  • Grout sealer
  • Shower fixtures
  • Shower door
  • Curtain rod
  • Shower curtain
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Instructions

  1. Installing the Shower Pan

    • 1

      Measure the dimensions of the floor inside the framing for the shower walls, and cut a sheet of 3/4-inch plywood to fit with a circular saw. Measure the distance between the framing and the drain hole on the subfloor, and cut a hole in the plywood at the corresponding location with a jigsaw. Wear safety goggles when sawing the wood.

    • 2

      Lay the plywood into the base of the shower, aligning the hole with the drain hole in the subfloor.

    • 3

      Nail a 2-by-10-inch board to the base of the framing for the shower wall on the three sides where the door is not being installed. Stand the boards on edge when positioning them. Stack three 2-by-4-inch boards on the subfloor along the edge where the door will be installed and nail them to the floor. Lay the two-by-fours on their widest edge when stacking them.

    • 4

      Cover the plywood with roofing felt and mesh, stapling both to the plywood. Cut a hole through the felt and mesh with a utility knife over the drain hole.

    • 5

      Slide the bottom flange of the drain pipe assembly into the drain hole. This will connect to the drain pipes that carry the water out of your home. Block the opening of the flange by covering it with duct tape or sticking a rag inside it to prevent mortar or debris from falling inside during construction.

    • 6

      Pour mortar on top of the shower base and smooth it with a 2-by-4-inch board. Slope the surface of the mortar so that the mortar is about 1 1/2 inches higher around the perimeter of the shower than it is around the drain hole. Allow the mortar to set for four to five days.

    • 7

      Cut a section of shower liner that is one foot wider and one foot longer than the shower base. Place the shower liner onto the base, centering it so that 6 inches of liner extends past the base on each side.

    • 8

      Nail the liner to the studs between the corners with roofing nails and fold the edges over in the corners before nailing it to the studs.

    • 9

      Cut slits into the shower liner where the bolts for the drain flange are located and slide the slits over the bolts. Cut a hole in the liner where the drain hole is located.

    • 10

      Brush sealant around the drain hole between the shower liner and the base as well as the top of the plastic drain plate. Place the drain plate over the drain hole and tighten the bolts.

    • 11

      Secure the liner around the edges of the shower where it's not nailed to the studs by stapling it to the top of the two-by-tens and two-by-fours. Take care not to tear the liner while you're doing this.

    • 12

      Clean the base of the shower with a vacuum cleaner. Remove the tape or rag from the bottom flange of the drain pipe assembly.

    • 13

      Lay the shower pan into position inside the stall. Check the shower pan for level in both directions--front-to-back and side-to-side--and put shims underneath the shower pan to level it if needed. Drill pilot holes through the lip around the edges of the shower pan and into the framing. Drive galvanized screws through the pilot holes and into the framing.

    • 14

      Slide the PVC trap into the drain pipe to test the fit. Separate the two pieces and apply PVC primer to the surfaces that will be connected, then allow it to dry. Place PVC cement on the surfaces where you applied the primer and fit the pieces together. Hold them firmly together for about 30 seconds while the cement sets.

    • 15

      Slide a rubber compression gasket over the drain pipe. Tap the drain pipe down until it's flush with the shower pan. Lay a wooden block on top of the drain pipe and use a rubber mallet, to protect the drain pipe. Connect the screen to the drain hole.

    Building the Walls

    • 16

      Measure the ceiling and walls and cut cement backerboards to fit. The cement backerboard is used in showers because it can withstand the moisture, unlike standard drywall.

    • 17

      Measure the location of the fixtures such as the faucet and shower handles onto the corresponding cement backerboards, and cut holes in the boards with a jigsaw that has a carbide-tipped masonry blade.

    • 18

      Install the backerboard onto the ceiling, attaching it by driving masonry screws through the backerboard and into the ceiling joists. Drive the first screws through the center of the board and work outward. Have an assistant help you with this because the backerboard is heavy.

    • 19

      Screw the backerboard onto the wall framing using the same method you used for the ceiling.

    • 20

      Place fiberglass seam tape over the joints between the different sheets of backerboard.

    • 21

      Cover the backerboard on the ceiling with a coat of primer and allow it to dry. Apply two coats of paint to the ceiling, allowing each coat to dry.

    • 22

      Place a tile against the wall along the bottom edge, and mark the top of the tile onto the backerboard. Do this every 12 inches around the shower, then draw a line to connect the marks.

    • 23

      Mix thinset mortar, following the manufacturer's instructions, and spread it onto the first wall, underneath the line. Run the notched edge of the trowel over the mortar to create ridges in the surface.

    • 24

      Place the first tile into the thinset in the corner. Press it firmly against the wall and place tile spacers around it.

    • 25

      Continue laying tiles around the bottom edge of the walls, following this process. If needed, cut the tiles at the end with a tile cutter. Wear safety goggles when doing this. Allow the tiles to set in the mortar for the time specified by the manufacturer.

    • 26

      Finish tiling the walls, using the same process you used for the first row. Cut the tiles for the top edges where the ceiling is slanted with a tile cutter.

    • 27

      Spread grout over the tiles with a grout float, beginning on the bottom walls and moving toward the ceiling. Move the float diagonally over the tiles and take the tile spacers out of the joints with needle-nose pliers before you cover those joints with grout. Allow the grout to set for the time specified by the manufacturer.

    • 28

      Wipe down the walls with a damp sponge to clean the grout off of the tiles, rinsing the sponge frequently.

    • 29

      Cover the grout between the tiles with grout sealer.

    • 30

      Install the fixtures in the shower--faucet and handles--and the shower door or shower curtain and rod.