The slope of the free-standing shower stall floor is the most important determining factor for how well the water will flow to the floor drain. Positioning the drain in the center and sloping the floor slightly towards it from all directions keeps the water draining quickly instead of standing. The "Tiled Steam Room and Steam Shower Technical Design Manual" from LATICRETE International recommends laying the subfloor with at least a 1/4-inch slope per foot for best results.
A bed of thick mortar creates the perfect base for a tile shower. This material is easily shaped during the building process, allowing you to follow the slope defined by the subfloor. The mortar is also covered by a special vinyl shower liner sheet that helps direct any moisture that gets under the tile or other flooring material to the drain. A drain cap installs over the mortar and the lining to create a watertight system.
The walls of the bathtub in a combination shower also work to direct water back towards the drain. In a stand-alone shower this is accomplished with a curb. The curb consists of a short wall at the bottom of the shower opening that acts as a lip to prevent water from draining out into the bathroom. A curb built from wood doesn't require an additional layer of mortar, but adding mortar adds height and rounded corners so you don't stub your toe getting out.
Contractors usually install trench drains in showers that lack curbs or are very large. The trench drain is a grate set flush with the shower floor that collects water across an opening and flushes it back towards the main drain. Installing these long, narrow drains in a shower with drainage problems is a good alternative to completely replacing the shower floor. Trench drains must also feature a sufficient slope of 1/4 inch per foot to drain properly.