Unpack the toilet bowl and all its parts. Make sure nothing is missing from the manufacturer's list of enclosed components and that the toilet is not damaged.
Install the toilet's closet carrier system, following the manufacturer's instructions. The carrier system determines the height of the toilet, so be sure to select one that is high enough. This system sets on the floor behind the finished wall, and includes the waste outlet and fresh water inlet. Once installed, four fixture studs from the carrier system poke out 2.125 inches through your finished wall.
Attach backup nuts to the fixture studs. The bottom nuts should be flush with the finished wall. Ensure the waste outlet sticks out from the finished wall by 5/16 inches, and then tighten the top backup nuts until they are on the same vertical plane as the lower nuts.
Attach a felt or neoprene gasket on the toilet bowl's outlet. This ensures an air-tight seal, once the bowl is installed.
Lift the bowl and place the fixture studs in the bowl's corresponding holes. Have a helper check to ensure the bowl's outlet gasket is compressed between the bowl and the carrier's waste outlet. Attach cap nuts and fiber washers to the fixture studs to fasten the bowl to the wall, saving the top-right stud for last. Do not over-tighten the nuts.
Apply sealant between the bowl and finished wall, using a putty knife, and wipe away excess using a clean rag. Fill the bowl with water, which will keep sewer gas from escaping.
Install the toilet's tank following the manufacturer's instructions, usually by bolting it to the bowl and attaching the fresh water inlet from behind the finished wall. Test the toilet by flushing it, to ensure water is flowing appropriately. Fasten a seat to the toilet, using a screwdriver and the seat's provided screws. Attach the seat by screwing four screws through the seat's hinge, then into the seat-mount on the toilet.