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How to Install a Leak Proof Tile Shower

When you're installing a new shower, it is of the utmost importance that you construct the shower so that it is leak proof. If water leaks out of the shower stall, it can cause problems in other areas of your home due to water damage. This includes mold and mildew growth, rot and damaged drywall. If you're using tile, filling the gaps between the tiles completely with grout can prevent leaks from occurring.

Things You'll Need

  • ¾-inch plywood board
  • Jigsaw
  • 2-by-4 boards
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • 2-by-10 boards
  • Roofing felt
  • Mesh
  • Staple gun
  • Staples
  • Utility knife
  • Shower drain assembly
  • Mortar
  • Shower liner
  • Roofing nails
  • Sealant
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Vacuum cleaner
  • Level
  • Shims
  • Drill
  • Galvanized screws
  • PVC trap
  • PVC cement
  • Rubber compression gasket
  • Rubber mallet
  • Wooden block
  • Screen
  • Cement backerboard
  • Masonry blade (for jigsaw)
  • Masonry screws
  • Fiberglass seam tape
  • Ceramic tiles
  • Straightedge
  • Thinset mortar
  • Notched trowel
  • Tile spacers
  • Wet saw
  • Safety goggles
  • Gloves
  • Ear protection
  • Grout
  • Grout float
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Damp sponge
  • Grout sealer
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Instructions

  1. Building the Shower Base

    • 1

      Cut a sheet of three-quarter inch plywood to fit the dimensions of the shower floor and cut a hole into the plywood for the drain pipe. Place the plywood into position inside the framing of the shower stall.

    • 2

      Construct an outer frame for the drain pan around the base of the shower stall. Stack three 2-by-4 boards on their broad sides on the side where the door will be installed and nail them to the floor. Nail a 2-by-10 board along the base of the stall where the tiled walls will be installed. Position the 2-by-10s on their narrow edges when nailing them to the framing.

    • 3

      Lay roofing felt onto the plywood and staple it in place. Lay a piece of mesh on top of the roofing felt and staple that to the plywood. Cut a hole through the felt and mesh for the drain hole.

    • 4

      Insert the bottom flange of the drain pipe assembly into the drain hole.

    • 5

      Build a mortar base for the shower stall, sloping the mortar toward the drain so that the mortar is about 1 1/2 inches thicker around the perimeter of the stall than it is around the drain hole. Allow the mortar to set for at least four to five days.

    • 6

      Cut a piece of shower liner that is six inches longer than the basin on each side.

    • 7

      Lay the shower liner on the mortar base, centering it. Fold the excess liner material in the corners over and nail it to the studs with roofing nails. Nail the liner between the corners to the wall studs. Take care not to tear the liner while doing this.

    • 8

      Cut holes into the shower liner over the bolts on the drain assembly and slide the liner over the bolts. Cut a hole in the liner over the drain hole.

    • 9

      Apply sealant between the base for the shower and the shower liner around the edge of the drain hole and on the top of the plastic drain plate. Place the plate over the hole and tighten the bolts to secure it.

    • 10

      Staple the liner around the perimeter of the shower base to the framing around the base.

    • 11

      Vacuum the surface of the shower liner to remove dust and debris. Place the shower pan into the stall and check it for level. Put shims underneath the shower pan to level it, if necessary. Drill pilot holes through the edge of the shower pan and into the framing and secure the shower pan by screwing galvanized screws into the pilot holes.

    • 12

      Slide the PVC trap into the drain pipe to check the fit and glue them together with PVC cement.

    • 13

      Slide a rubber compression gasket drain pipe. Place a wooden block on top of the drain pipe and tap it down with a rubber mallet until the drain pipe is flush with the shower pan. The wooden block protects the drain pipe from the hammer blows.

    • 14

      Attach the screen to the drain hole.

    Hanging the Cement Backerboard

    • 15

      Measure the dimensions of the ceiling and the shower walls and cut sheets of cement backerboard, also called greenboard, to fit. Do not use drywall in the shower because standard drywall cannot handle the amounts of moisture created in a shower. Cut holes for the pipes and fixtures in the backerboard with a jigsaw.

    • 16

      Raise the backerboard for the ceiling against the ceiling joists. Have an assistant help you with this. Attach the backerboard to the ceiling joists with masonry screws. Begin by installing the screws in the center of the board and move out toward the perimeter of the ceiling.

    • 17

      Install the backerboard onto the walls, using the same method you used to install it on the ceiling.

    • 18

      Cover the joints between the different drywall boards with fiberglass seam tape.

    Installing the Tiles

    • 19

      Place a tile against the base of the wall and mark the top edge of the tile onto the backerboard. Do this every two to three feet along the walls and connect the marks with a straightedge.

    • 20

      Mix thinset mortar, following the instructions on the packaging. Spread the thinset along the base of the wall underneath the line you drew to mark the tiles. Create grooves in the thinset with the notched edge of the trowel.

    • 21

      Begin setting tiles into the thinset. Press them firmly against the wall and place tile spacers between the tiles. Allow the mortar to set for the time specified by the manufacturer.

    • 22

      Finish tiling the rest of the shower, using the same technique you used to install the first row of tiles. If you need to cut tiles to fit on the wall, use a wet saw after putting on safety goggles, gloves and ear protection.

    • 23

      Mix a batch of grout and begin applying it to the tiles along the bottom of the walls. Slide the grout float diagonally over the tiles and make several passes over the same area to pack the grout into the gaps between the tiles. Remove the tile spacers with needle-nose pliers as you come across them. Allow the grout to set for the time specified on the packaging.

    • 24

      Wipe the grout off of the surface of the tiles with a damp sponge. Rinse the sponge frequently.

    • 25

      Apply grout sealer to the joints between the tiles.