Take up any material that lines the shower stall floor, such as fiberglass or tile. Remove the clips that hold fiberglass coverings in place, or chip away the grout between tiles with a chisel and hammer, then pry the tiles up with a putty knife.
Scrub adhesive from the floor’s surface with a paint scraper. Clean the floor with a wet rag to remove the bits of adhesive left on the surface. Lay a level at several areas around the floor between the drain and the sides of the shower stall to check the incline.
Measure the width of each side of the shower stall that doesn’t have a permanent wall next to it. Cut boards roughly 2 inches higher than the current sides of the shower to the width of each side. Place the cut boards against the sides of the shower stall and set concrete blocks or bricks against the boards to secure them.
Combine roughly one part cement with three parts builder’s sand in a bucket to create a concrete mix. Add enough water so the mixture sticks together but doesn’t feel wet.
Apply the concrete mix to the floor’s surface with a trowel, starting with a thin layer by the drain and gradually increasing the amount of concrete out toward the walls to create incline. Use the level to check that the incline is more pronounced than it was originally.
Build the ledges around the shower stall up by roughly an inch by applying concrete mix to the tops of the ledges by the boards. Use a trowel to apply the mix and a putty knife to shape the mix so that the new part of the ledge lines up with the original ledge below to maintain the same wall thickness. Let the new concrete dry for 72 hours and then reinstall the fiberglass or tile to the shower stall.