If the concrete has been painted, has adhesive on it or has been treated with a chemical substrate, you cannot tile over it because the tile mortar will not bond with treated concrete.The installation would be very difficult, and even if some tiles did stick in the short-term, they would fall off later. Instead of using tile, select a shower surround that is attached with adhesive.
Thoroughly clean the concrete before you tile over it. While you can't use a pressure washer inside, all the dirt and grime particles need to be removed. Use only hot water and a cloth for this process. Let the concrete dry completely before attempting to lay tile on it. If the concrete shower side is smooth and glossy, treat it with an acid before you tile; otherwise, the tile will not adhere properly.
Start tiling in a small, square area at the edge of the shower. Spread on the mortar or mastic on the concrete. Use a textured trowel for the best results. With this type of trowel, you just flip it over to score the mortar, which gives the tile a better hold. Use tile spacers on all four sides of the tile to keep the lines of tile even. Once you're done with the first square area, move on to the next square area, until the entire process is complete. Let the mortar set per the manufacturer's instructions.
Grout the area to finish the project. Working on a small area at a time, remove the grout spacers in the area and spread the grout over the tiles. Wipe the grout off the tiles with a clean, damp cloth. Do not let the grout sit on top of the tile too long or the grout will be impossible to remove. Then, lay down a 1/4-inch bead of waterproof caulk around the shower edges to further seal the tile to the concrete and prevent any future water issues.